Grown-up Travel Guide’s Best Photos: Hippo in the Zambezi River, Zimbabwe
It’s easy to miss this big fella watching us carefully as we drift past on a sunset cruise on the Zambezi in Zimbabwe. This was a wonderful way to relax after a busy day of activities in Victoria Falls and before the evening’s entertainment began…
#zimbabwesafari2014
Making the most of a morning in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Last year I had one of the best trips of my life when I spent a week in Zimbabwe working with Imvelo Safari Lodges, a company that offers some of the best safari experiences you can have on the continent while helping both wildlife and the local community. I’ve been drip-feeding content ever since both here on the blog and on our various social media channels – just search for the #zimbabwesafari2014 hashtag on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Google + and Foursquare to see the posts related to this adventure.
I also promised you more and am currently working on an extensive article about the wildlife conservation and community projects which Imvelo runs in the country and which set the benchmark for responsible tourism in my book.
With this in mind I decided it would be a good time to republish some of the Zimbabwe content for those of you who may have missed it the first time round. I’ll review the accommodation and experiences I had at two of Imvelo’s properties soon but first of all I wanted to show you just how much you can pack into a single day at Victoria Falls…
To avoid confusion let me make it clear from the start that Victoria Falls is a town as well as the natural phenomenon itself.
It’s on the Zimbabwean side of the bridge that forms the border crossing into Zambia and has an international airport making it a preferred point of entry for many visitors to Zimbabwe.
You can reach Hwange National Park in a few hours on a good road – which is where the majority of travellers are destined for – but don’t rush off without experiencing one of the natural wonders of the world – ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ (‘the smoke that thunders’). It doesn’t stop there either – the town of Victoria Falls is one of the most tourist-oriented in Zimbabwe with a number of operators offering activities ranging from relaxing sundowner cruises to bungee jumping.
Imvelo Safari Lodges recommended Shearwater Victoria Falls – the oldest operator on the Zimbabwean side and a company with a superb reputation. Shearwater were keen for me to experience their activities and review them honestly for my readers so we emailed back and forth to end up with a programme for the one full day I had in town. In the interest of disclosure I received a 50% discount on the standard prices but my opinions – as always on Grown-up Travel Guide – are my own.
While on the subject of prices, I have included the rate for each individual activity but Shearwater also offers a range of combo deals. You can book several products together at a major discount so check the Shearwater website; you may be surprised how much you can save.
I’ll write more about the fascinating history of the Falls, the town, bridge, hotel and all that great stuff in later articles; first of all I’m going to concentrate on the activities themselves. With so many photos, video clips and words I’ve had to divide this into three parts
If you can, try to do this first. Nothing compares to seeing the Victoria Falls for the first time from the air. When I visited the water levels were extremely high due to exceptionally good – and late – rains, and the sheer amount of mist generated obscured the view from ground level. To really understand the scale of the falls – take to the air.
The name of this helicopter trip comes from the writings of David Livingstone. It’s hard to imagine the impact of seeing the Victoria Falls for the first time with no prior knowledge of their existence, but when he did so in 1855 he wrote that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. Now you can get an angel’s eye view of one of the natural wonders of the world…
In addition to the 13-minute “Flight of Angels” there is a 25-minute “Zambezi Spectacular” flight which covers a wider area, but you won’t feel shortchanged by the shorter version.
Shearwater owns the Zambezi Helicopter Company which is the largest private helicopter company in Zimbabwe and they will transport you to the departure point for your tour which is a few minutes from their town centre offices. I was lucky enough to get a place on the first helicopter tour of the day which was scheduled for 0830.
The flight was full which in our case meant 6 passengers plus the pilot – 5 in the back of the helicopter and one upfront. No matter where you sit you’ll have a great view, and the route includes both left-hand and right-hand circuits over the Falls so passengers on both sides get equal treatment.
Our group was blessed with perfect weather conditions and after a short briefing it was time to get going – while nothing beats the real thing I filmed the ride on my GoPro so you can see why you can’t afford to miss out on this experience. You’ll see that about half way through the film the chopper swings over so that those of us on the right get a stunning view of the Falls too. It’s in full 1080P too, so turn on HD quality and enjoy!
After landing we were ushered into a viewing room to watch the souvenir DVD put together while we were in the air, comprising footage shot by their photographer when we arrived and cut together with images, video and facts about the Falls. There’s no pressure to accept the offer and after the screening you’ll be driven back to town.
Prices at time of visit: Flight of Angels USD 140 Zambezi Spectacular USD 265
I had an hour or so to kill before the next event on my schedule, the historic tram ride to the Bridge. Trish at Shearwater suggested I had a look at the legendary Victoria Falls hotel and as the tram leaves from the station right outside the building it was on my way.
Despite its popularity Victoria Falls town is a small and easy-going town – as a tourist you’ll attract a certain amount of attention from would-be guides and souvenir sellers but never feel intimidated or that your polite ‘no thank you’ is ignored.
I had my first wildlife sighting during the walk to the hotel – first a family of warthogs crossed the road then a group of monkeys came the other way.
The Victoria Falls Hotel is an impressive example of colonial extravagance and and well worth visiting, the staff don’t mind if you look round and nobody tries to make you sit down and buy a drink in the bar.
Of course you may be tempted into doing so to fully enjoy the beautiful view from the terrace.
The impeccably kept gardens and enviable location are two major draws but a lot of people find a visit to the bathrooms just as interesting if online discussions are anything to go by.
Unlike many other ‘grand hotels’ in Africa this one had kept up with developments and offers all the modern comforts you’d expect from a luxury property. Indeed the Victoria Falls Hotel remains one of Africa’s best hotels – just as it was over 100 years ago. Next time, I’m going to have to stay here but right now I have a tram to catch…
A short distance from the hotel a red carpet lead to the platform of the Victoria Falls Station. Upon arrival I met up with Patience, a Shearwater representative who would be joining me for the tour as well as the other passengers.
After a refreshing drink the tram came to pick us up. A new vehicle modelled on the 19th century design, this is an open-sided diesel tram with eight rows of bench seats. Our driver and guide took their places and a waiter offered us further refreshments for the 20-minute journey to the Victoria Falls Bridge.
After leaving the station and crossing the main road in town we were soon into the bush and right away we spotted several Impala watching us.
The driver stopped to allow us to observe and take photographs before we slowly pulled away again.
I’d read stories about all sorts of wildlife wandering through town and the proximity to nature became even clearer a few minutes later when we saw these elephants just a few metres from the entrance to the Rainforest National Park.
Since the Bridge is located in ‘no mans land’ between Zimbabwe and Zambia you will need to have your passport with you. This is just a formality and on the tram ride one of the crew members collected our documents to show to the Zimbabwean authorities. While we waited rain fell steadily from the skies – but of course this was in fact spray from the Falls produced by the huge amount of mist I’d seen from the chopper.
Border procedures completed we were off again and just a few minutes away the Bridge came into view.
Trundling over we passed the bungee platform and I caught a glimpse of the zip line. This was going to be good!
Arriving on the other side of the bridge we disembarked the tram for the Bridge Cafe.
This is the only restaurant in either country with a view of the face of the Falls. The cafe is built on a platform over the Batoka Gorge and is the perfect location to watch other people do crazy things while taking it easy with a cold beer or a bite to eat.
On this occasion I was to be one of the ‘other people’. As I’d booked a Bridge Slide I was taken aside to get into my harness and go through a safety briefing while the rest of our group kicked back and put their orders in…
As mentioned previously I swore to my wife I wouldn’t try bungee jumping for the first time while travelling on my own in Africa, but I did get permission to try the Bridge Slide (zip line) across the gorge. It was fantastic, but again I’ll let the GoPro do the talking:
This experience is marketed as family-friendly and the mildest of the Bridge activities. I would agree, and add that I felt absolutely safe the entire time as the staff are professional, give clear instructions and instil confidence in their customers. The equipment is in perfect condition and safety is taken very seriously – those ropes can bear a huge amount of weight.
As you can see you are pulled in by a guy on the other side and you then need to walk a short way under the bridge to the exit point.
Price at time of visit: Bridge Slide USD 40 single USD 265
Having walked back over the bridge to the cafe I rejoined the rest of my group for the Historic Bridge Tour. This starts with a theatrical performance with an actor playing the part of Georges Imbauly, the Frenchman who was the Chief Construction Engineer for the Victoria Falls Bridge.
Kitted out in period costume, he regaled us with stories from the construction, anecdotes from the notorious drinking sessions after each day’s work at the Victoria Falls Hotel (which was built first) and some impressive facts and figures. It may sound a little cheesy but it really isn’t – this was one of the highlights of the day and both informative and a lot of fun.
Once the presentation was over we were given full safety harnesses once more as it was time to join our architect friend to walk beneath the Bridge.
#zimbabwesafari2014
The positive impact of tourism – visiting Imvelo’s social projects in Zimbabwe
Going on safari in Africa – it’s hard to think of any other travel experience that holds the same allure. Exotic, adventurous, wild…perhaps with a tinge of danger to add to the excitement? Often described as a ‘once in a lifetime’ activity, a safari holiday is certainly high on many a bucket list.
I would argue that the majority of those who are fortunate enough to visit the most exciting and vibrant continent on the planet do in fact return. And the rest dream of doing so.
Okay, I’ll admit my evidence for this claim is more anecdotal than empirical but don’t let me stop you commissioning a survey to check if you so desire. The only caveat is that you buy me a beer when the results prove me right – which they will.
Anyway, there are a lot of things to consider when you decide it’s time to experience an African safari. Note the deliberate use of “when” rather than “if” there. However this article is going to focus on ‘responsible travel’; a rather broad – and often misused – term that you’ll see used by just about every safari operator and accommodation provider promoting their services in Africa.
So what exactly does it mean to travel responsibly? There are a multitude of interpretations but I like to see it as travel which minimises your negative impact on the local environment and is instead beneficial to the destination.
Obviously there are trade-offs; flying half way round the world isn’t exactly good for global warming and your time could arguably be more responsibly spent generating electricity on an exercise bike attached to a dynamo in your basement for two weeks.
So let’s look at the other part of the equation here – how your dream trip can benefit the destination.
In the context of a safari in Africa there are really two main issues to consider: conservation and development. But the point here is that both need to be addressed as one will not work without the other.
Those tour operators, safari lodge owners and for that matter NGOs and governmental agencies that understand the need for policies that promote both conservation and development are the ones that succeed.
Let’s look at both individually: conservation is not just about saving a single species – the entire environment must be conserved. It might seem like saving the white rhino is priority number one but if those white rhino have no ecosystem in which to thrive, what is the point?
Yet the people who live on the land must benefit from its conservation – not live next to a private safari concession and watch while a few rich foreigners gawp at elephant. When those elephant threaten their crops or their families, where is the incentive not to defend themselves?
Put simply, the local population must see direct benefits from animals being protected and tourists coming to see them. This is the development part of the equation. Once a farmer sees that money from the safari lodge is used to build clinics and schools, provide safe water and paid job opportunities he will see the value in the wildlife that tourists are paying to see.
It’s a win-win situation – you as a paying guest enjoy an experience you will never forget and the local communities reap benefits they would not otherwise receive.
This is one of the reasons I wanted to work with Imvelo Safari Lodges and chose them for my first ever safari.
Their operations in Zimbabwe are a shining example of how responsible travel can work – and while visiting Bomani Tented Lodge I was able to visit some of the projects in the Hwange area. By starting with the villages closest to the camp itself and working their way along the edge of the vast national park the company is helping a rising number of local communities to advance.
These are villages in an area essentially overlooked by the government – a mixture of politics, tribalism and history has left this part of the country far poorer than others. Imvelo is providing help that would not otherwise reach these isolated villages and a reason why talk of boycotting travel to Zimbabwe really makes me furious.
No matter how you feel about a country’s leaders or their policies, would you really want to actively deny its people help by staying away? There is enough material for an entire article’s worth of ranting about the idiocy of travel boycotts so I’ll not start that ball rolling here. Suffice it to say that you should think long and hard before deciding not to go somewhere for political reasons (I could give you enough of those to put you off most countries in the world, I’m sure.)
All of Imvelo’s guests are offered the chance to see the impact their money is making and I thoroughly recommend the experience. Feedback is overwhelmingly positive and most visitors say that such excursions were the most rewarding part of their entire stay.
In order to get the full picture I was shown one of the first schools to receive help and thus at the most advanced stage in its development, a school which has received help to build some new blocks and at which progress is ongoing and finally a school where work is about to start.
My guide for this part of my visit was Thembinkosi Mlauzi – Programs Coordinator for Imvelo Safari Lodges. A mine of information about the company’s projects, the local area and history I could have talked with him for weeks on end. In the event I only had two mornings but made the most of them…
Our first port of call was Ngamo. The closest village to Bomani and the new Imvelo lodge close by – Camelthorn – Ngamo has both a junior and high school which have benefitted greatly from revenues produced by the lodges. But we had an appointment with the Village Head first.
We were greeted by Johnson Ncube who showed us around his immaculately kept compound and explained many of the details of village life.
His wife showed us around their house which was also where our guide – Johnson Ncube’s son Vusumuzi (Vusa for short) had grown up.
Vusa Ncube is training to become a qualified guide which in Zimbabwe is a major undertaking. From the time I spent in his company I am sure he will make an excellent guide and is a real asset to Imvelo. But he is also a role model to the rest of the local community – before the only real career choice was to be a teacher; there just weren’t any other opportunities beyond farming.
Now many young children aspire to become guides or work at the lodges – and those who do choose teaching have properly-equipped schools at which to work.
This painting on the wall of the family home is evidence of another of Vusa’s talents…
Vusa’s mother demonstrates her skill at making bags and other handicrafts after showing us round her home.
The kitchen is not contained within the house but in a separate building, complete with decorative shelving formed from the clay walls.
All of our questions were answered and we got a fascinating insight into traditional rural life in Zimbabwe. Then it was time for school…
As you can see, Ngamo is a modern junior school with amenities that Vusa and his peers could only dream of when they were in class. These days the school is well-equipped and built to last.
We got a rousing reception from one of the classes – they are probably used to visitors by now but this didn’t seem to have tarnished their enthusiasm. We timed our visit between lessons so as to cause minimum disruption, by the way.
After spending time with the children we said our farewells and had a quick peek in the school library.
The shelves were groaning under the weight of donated text books from around the world – many of which were provided through the efforts of one lady in South Africa – a previous Imvelo guest. Books are an excellent gift to bring if you visit.
The grounds of Ngamo Junior School are well kept and the enormous tree provides welcome shade. After a chat with the headmaster of the school we returned to the vehicle to pay a visit to Ngamo High School.
Here we sat in on a maths lesson where the aptitude of the students was far better than mine. I offered little help to the two boys I was sat with who solved the problems on their own.
Here too the classroom blocks are well built, desks and chairs are provided and in good condition and facilities for the teachers and children are of a decent standard.
Ngamo Junior was still a work in progress as another classroom was needed, but work was underway and the construction teams are fast builders.
Mzimkhulu Sigola – the Head of Ngamo High School showed us the newly completed teachers’ accommodation.
One of the biggest problems in the rural areas of Zimbabwe is attracting teachers to come and work. Most need to live on site and a lack of adequate accommodation is a huge disincentive. Being able to offer good housing makes an enormous difference and both schools at Ngamo are now fully staffed.
The toilet block was also recently completed.
It was time for us to return to Bomani and an afternoon game drive. But the next morning we drove much further, to visit a school desperately in need of help and the next on the list to receive assistance from Imvelo.
Mr E. Nyakura – a teacher at Mtshayeli Junior School, showed us the sorry state of his workplace. This was a timely reminder of just how bad things are before help is provided.
The classroom had a roof that leaked and was unsafe during the rains; indeed there is no way that anyone would be taught inside such a dangerous, crumbling structure in rich countries. But the ability of Zimbabweans to make do with what they have once again touched my heart.
Many of the chairs used by pupils were falling apart and some had to share – and the desks, of which there were far too few, were all of different heights. They needed help fast, and thankfully it was on its way. There are many more schools like this one, and it be a slow process. But little by little, things are moving in the right direction.
As we left Mtshayeli for the two hour trip back on the bumpy bush roads the three of us who were guests at Bomani fell silent – lost in our own thoughts. It’s hard to believe just how lucky we are purely due to where we are born and grow up. It certainly makes me realise just how priviledged we are in Europe and how different my daughter’s experience at school is to those Zimbabwean children of the same age.
Yet the main feeling we all took away was one of hope – Imvelo seem to have found the right way to balance the desires of tourists with the needs of the community. For an incredible safari experience in Zimbabwe that not only will provide you with memories for life but will also help the local community, book with Imvelo Safari Lodges.
Making the most of an afternoon in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Since I am currently in Botswana and off the grid for a few days (no wi-fi, no mobile phone signal – what bliss!) it seemed appropriate to republish a few articles from my last trip to the most exciting continent in the world. Last year I experienced Zimbabwe for the first time – and I thoroughly recommend you do the same…
This is the second part of the story – check out the morning in Victoria Falls here
Pulling on my harness for the next part of the tour, I was a little taken aback when Monsieur Georges Imbault himself came over to help me adjust the straps. No longer in his role as the French engineer, our host was now preparing to lead us across the catwalk underneath the bridge and was clearly an expert in safety too.
Look closely at the picture of the Victoria Falls Bridge above which was taken from the other side of the gorge later in the day (the Zimbabwean side). Just under the roadway, running the length of the bridge is a narrow catwalk. This is the original access route used in the construction and maintenance of the structure – and if you sign up for the tour you get to walk it…
Some people actually find this more of a challenge than the zip line or even a bungee jump and I do understand that anyone who has a problem with heights might struggle. Rest assured that safety is again paramount and each of us had two lines on our harness fitted with carabiners which we would use to attach to the safety wire running the length of the bridge walkway.
We were instructed to keep at least one of these attached to the wire at all times, unclipping the other as necessary to move round obstructions. It was the same system I had used after the bridge slide and at climbing parks in Europe and each line is extremely strong.
This clip will show you what to expect:
As you can see the walkway is made of metal mesh so you get a great view straight down – but this may not be everyone’s cup of tea. Indeed two of our group had their doubts which proved to be founded when half way across, but to the guide’s credit he talked them though and nobody had to turn back.
One of them cried most of the way but I think she was glad she didn’t give up. I found it an amazing experience and an excellent way to fully understand just how incredible the Bridge design is – especially considering it was built in 1905!
After completing the walk we received a certificate and it was time to bid goodbye to our genial host and get back on board the tram for the journey back to Zimbabwe.
Another round of cold drinks were most welcome as our driver fired up the engine and we headed back to the border post. I left the tram shortly after at the entrance to the National Park as the next item on my agenda was to see the Falls from the ground.
To get up close and personal with one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, head here. The views from the Zimbabwean side are better and the park is very well maintained despite all the problems in the country and the huge number of visitors. As well as the sight of the Falls there is a unique rainforest environment here due to the consistently damp microclimate, with a wealth of flora and fauna which have adapted to it.
A looping route leads from the entrance and visitor’s centre to the first of 16 viewpoints from which you can see – and hear – the Victoria Falls.
Perhaps the best place to start is at Livingstone’s statue where you can try to imagine what went through his mind here in 1855.
Having done so, I was soon making my way down the slippery steps to gaze upon the Devil’s Cataract in all its thunderous glory – and realising that this is but one section of the Falls themselves.
I put together a video from the footage I shot during my time in the park which you can see here:
Filming and taking photographs is not easy due to the spray which gets heavier as you move eastwards. I seriously regretted not having brought a waterproof jacket – especially a little later when what I assumed was just increasing mist turned out to be the mother of all tropical storms. Being in an open area devoid of shelter and at the furthest possible point from the cafe or visitors centre, there was little I could do about it and I was soaked to the skin.
By the time I made it to the cafe I was able to literally empty about half a litre of water from each of my boots and to wring a similar quantity from my shirt and trousers. The skies cleared a few minutes later and my clothes dried quickly, but my feet were squelching for the rest of the night. Lesson learned.
The Rainforest Café is a good place to have lunch – or dry out – or both in my case. I found they had a decent menu, good coffee, cold beer and blankets for wet guests which ticked all the boxes as far as I was concerned. Nearby you can learn all about the Falls at the Interpretive Centre and a well-stocked souvenir shop.
Patience had made arrangements with the staff of the cafe so that I could tell the waitress when I was ready to be picked up and Shearwater would send a driver. In the end I met some people from the Lodge where I was staying who offered me a lift back and on arrival at the office Patience told me she already knew I was on my way – word travels fast in Victoria Falls.
With the weather now much improved I was picked up at 4pm to be taken to the next event – a sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Sipping a sundowner while watching the sun go down is something of a tradition in these parts, and who am I to question tradition?
Shearwater runs several vessels from a jetty about ten minutes’ drive from their office, as do a number of other companies, but the concept is basically the same. For your money you get a relaxing, two-hour cruise with complimentary drinks and snacks.
You’ll see wildlife and plenty of birds and be treated to a wonderful sunset, weather conditions permitting.
The two-deck boats sail downstream before reaching the point of no return with the mist from the Victoria Falls in the distance, before turning and travelling upstream until sundown. Roll the film!
If you prefer photos…
Hey – did you see something in the water?
Aha! Hard to imagine how these big lugs can be so dangerous, but they are and kill hundreds of people each year. So a zoom lens is preferable to getting closer.
Nearly there…
There you go. Picture-postcard stuff.
Just managing to avoid the coming storm we landed back where we started and boarded the waiting bus. This took passengers to various destinations and in my case to the final activity of the day – dinner!
I was pretty exhausted by this stage, but soon perked up when I got to Boma. It is a tourist trap, but it’s a good one. Offering a huge buffet with all sorts of grilled meat, vegetables, local specialities and desserts accompanied by cultural performances it’s great fun, but probably better enjoyed in company.
Very popular with large groups, it’s also good for families and couples but being on my own I felt a little out of place and also felt that the waiters saw me as a low value customer. I was also largely ignored by the wandering salesmen peddling everything from aphrodisiac drinks to fortune-telling services but did notice that they were not the persistent type and nobody was hassled during their meals.
This didn’t stop me enjoying myself though and the food was excellent and the wine most welcome. After choosing from a menu of starters I made several journeys to the various food sections (for research purposes, of course). My research included succulent warthog steak but did not encompass mopani worms.
The music and dance shows were great but I left before things really got going – later on there are drumming sessions where audience participation is encouraged and the opportunity to watch uncomfortable foreigners trying to dance. Not wanting to be one of the latter I called my driver from Gorges Lodge as arranged and made my getaway into the night. Lasting from dawn to dusk, and then a bit more, this had truly been one of the most exhilarating days of my life.
Grown-up Travel Guide’s Best Photos: Bridge Slide, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Having promised my wife I wouldn’t bungee jump without her – or rather not do anything so stupid on my own – I kept my word, naturally. However I did receive clearance for the Bridge Slide (zipline), one of Shearwater Victoria Falls‘ many activities. It might be lamer than the bungee or the pendulum swing, but it was still an incredible experience. This shot was taken just before my ride and don’t worry, I filmed the whole thing using my faithful GoPro camera so as soon as I finish editing it you’ll be able to see whether I screamed the entire length of the wire or kept my composure in a very British manner…
#zimbabwesafari2014
Experiencing life on the edge at Gorges Lodge, Zimbabwe
Last year I experienced Zimbabwe for the first time – and I thoroughly recommend you do the same…
As this picture of the bar area suggests, Gorges Lodge is no ordinary hotel. When I looked through my notes, video footage and photographs I realized that a regular hotel review would not do the place justice and have therefore taken a different approach in this article. As well as the actual accommodation I’ve included details of the activities which are available and touched upon the work of Imvelo Safari Lodges who manage the property – but expect much more on the latter in future articles.
The descent into Victoria Falls airport was spectacular even though I was on the wrong side of the aircraft to get much of a view of the Falls themselves.
At this distance it’s hard to imagine what lies beneath that mist – but I’d be finding out the next day.
For an international airport, Victoria Falls is tiny but well organized and after obtaining my visa on arrival – for which UK citizens pay more than most but for some reason less than Canadians – I waited for my case. Instead of a carousel the baggage from the South African Airways flight was brought into the arrivals area by hand and all I needed to do was find a trolley.
The first thing that struck me was the complete lack of hassle. By which I mean that nobody was trying to make a quick buck by carrying cases, offering to guide me to a taxi or any of the myriad of schemes that new arrivals often get exposed to in other countries.
I had to send my luggage through a scanner and then load it back on the trolley before leaving the arrivals hall. I was met by Richman, a friendly driver from Gorges Lodge who was evidently experienced enough to ask if I wanted to use the bathroom before the journey that he expected to take about 40 minutes. A small touch, but a nice one.
After loading my gear into the pick-up we were soon on our way and the excitement of being back in Africa for the first time in 20 years was intense. Richman and I talked at length about my time in Ghana et. al. back in the day and his life in present-day Zimbabwe.
Soon we left the asphalt that continues to the town of Victoria Falls for a dirt road that was in a fairly rough state after the prolonged rains this year. But Richman knew the route well and expertly steered round the worst of the pot holes. During the dry season the road will be graded once more which will cut the journey time, but the slow pace gave me the opportunity to take in the countryside.
Now and again we got a glimpse of the mist from the Falls on the horizon which looked more like smoke from a huge fire. Homesteads and small but extremely well-kept villages dotted the landscape before we reached the sign for Gorges Lodge and turned onto the final sandy stretch leading to the outer gate.
After closing the gate behind us Richman jumped back in and a few minutes later the reception building came into view. Debbie, who manages Gorges Lodge with her husband Chris, came to greet me and I was given a cold towel. I received the key to chalet number two after check-in formalities were completed, my bags were unloaded from the vehicle and would be taken to my room – but first I was invited to have a cold drink at the bar.
Walking through the reception block and following a stone path through the beautiful gardens we entered the restaurant building to emerge at the bar. For once, the actual experience surpassed the pictures on the website or promotional material – it was far better.
Perched 250 metres above the Zambezi on the edge of the Batoka Gorge, it’s surely impossible not to have your breath taken away by the view. If you look really closely here you’ll see some white-water rafters nearing the end of their journey from Victoria Falls down there, as yet unaware of the climb that awaits them to reach the road…
Suitably refreshed by both the drink and the cool breeze in the bar, I was shown to my cottage by Debbie and had a few hours to relax after my long journey. Clearly any sensible person would have got some sleep but I was a little too fired up to doze.
Chalet number 2 was large and comfortable, with a high thatched ceiling and fans to keep the temperature manageable. Sure enough, my bags awaited me in the room and to celebrate my safe arrival (any excuse, right?) I opened a cold beer from the mini-bar and went out onto the veranda to drink in the view.
Eventually it was time to unpack and have a good look round my chalet – and I took the opportunity to film a walkthrough which you can see here:
A major refurbishment project is nearing completion and I was lucky enough to stay in one of the renovated chalets – although it had no wardrobe as the supplier had not yet delivered. I had no problem living out of my case for the two nights I was staying there and by the time you read this all ten cottages are likely to be fully fitted and redesigned.
The bedroom featured two large double beds with mosquito nets, a seating area and small table, well-stocked mini-bar and fridge built into the wall, remotely controlled ceiling fans, tea and coffee making equipment and ample power sockets.
The large bathroom contained a huge double-head shower (although the water pressure wasn’t great, but adequate), double washbasins and toiletries including insect repellant which is a good touch. There is a separate toilet and the bathroom has a ceiling fan too.
I should probably point out that Gorges Lodge has electricity 24 hours a day as well as hot and cold running water and excellent Wi-Fi in the main bar area. I found it harder to get a cellphone signal, but this is the sort of place where being off the grid is a real plus point, rather than a drawback.
Moving back into the bedroom, the veranda is accessible through the screened doors where a view like no other awaits. With a table and seating area all you need to add is a good book and a cold beer for the ultimate relaxation to the soundtrack of the mighty river below.
In terms of the standard of the cottage accommodation, it was excellent although there were a few minor niggles which I’m sure the management will address. The mosquito screening on the doors and windows needed replacement as there were many large holes and a few in the nets over the beds.
The door out to the balcony was hard to keep closed – the magnetic fastening was clearly worn. This also encourages insects to enter the room, of course. I think the bedroom would benefit from being a little brighter – nothing that a lick of paint, some attention to the lighting and just a few colourful objects wouldn’t fix.
But this really is nit-picking. Gorges Lodge is fantastic value and the all-round experience pushes the property high into the luxury bracket. Luxury is of course subjective; in my opinion it is not about exclusive wines or spa treatments. Both are nice, but real luxury comes from enjoying unforgettable experience with a good level of comfort rather than a pillow menu or imported chantilly cream.
Unpacked and ready for action, I made my way to the reception area where I met up with Debbie’s daughter, Carrie and was introduced to a couple of other guests. I clambered on the bench seats on the back of the Lodge’s Land Rover together with Martin, one half of an English couple who had arrived that day.
His wife joined Carrie in the cab and we set off for Dibu-Dibu, another part of the Gorges property where wine, nibbles and eagle-watching awaited.
On arrival at the viewing area where we were joined by another guest from Brazil and Carrie explained what was going to happen. Debbie would out put some meat further up the gorge near her house and hopefully attract a black eagle that called this area home. We could watch this all from a safe distance with a glass of wine in hand.
Sure enough, soon we saw a huge bird swoop past us on its way up the gorge and feed from the fence at the bottom of Debbie’s garden.
As an introduction to the wildlife of Zimbabwe, it was a great start. As night fell and the wine flowed, our small group got to know each other and swapped stories as the stars began to shine upon us from the clear night sky.
It’s a cliche, but it’s true: the night sky in Africa is stunning. We even saw the International Space Station shoot past – Martin had checked online and let us know when to expect it and it turned up on cue.
A couple of glasses later it was time to return to the Lodge as a local dance troupe was going to entertain us before dinner.
Returning to the reception area once more we found a row of chairs set up for us and the darkness broken by a rack of powerful lights trained on what would be the ‘stage’. A few minutes later the Chisuma Gorge Boys appeared and began their show, led by the irrepressible Sebenze.
I’ve seen a lot of dance troupes over the years in Africa and the experience is always great, but these guys really excelled and having front-row seats was a privilege. I captured some of their performance on film as you can see below. Caution: contains white people dancing…
Yes, I did shake my stuff too but we’ll leave that to the imagination. I am in the process of ensuring that any footage recorded by the other guests is permanently destroyed…
When the show drew to a close we were shown to the lawn by the swimming pool where dinner was ready. A barbecue buffet of wholesome and tasty food accompanied by wine and more importantly great company.
I was seated at a long table with Debbie and her extended family (she had some relatives visiting) and as the evening progressed I realised that life really doesn’t get much better than this. Good food, meeting new people, telling and hearing stories accompanied by freely-flowing wine and beer – all of this under the stars on a warm African night. This is luxury.
Returning to my chalet with a torch-wielding escort I reflected on the fact that this would be the first overnight stay in Africa for nearly twenty years – what on earth was I thinking? For true Grown-up Travel, no other continent comes close.
Waking at dawn I caught the beautiful sunrise and packed for visit to Victoria Falls town. It looked like a perfect morning for my helicopter trip and I needed to get moving early. A transfer vehicle would meet me at 0730 to allow plenty of time to get to the Shearwater offices in town and I was the first and only guest at breakfast.
With a good selection of both hot and cold food I was set up for the day and I can say for certain that I’d never enjoyed bacon and eggs in such a spectacular location before…
All of the experiences I enjoyed at Victoria Falls can be booked through Gorges Lodge, who also use Shearwater as their company of choice. Imvelo offers a range of packages with accommodation and activities included in the price, as well as a transfer to and from the town.
Full details of the adventures I had can be found in two articles here on Grown-up Travel Guide; there was so much to do I had to split the day into the morning and the afternoon.
There are plenty of other activities they can arrange with Shearwater too; white-water rafting, game drives and even a day trip into Botswana.
At the lodge itself you can visit the local village, take part in a guided walk along the Gorge and enjoy the aforementioned eagle-watching. There are plenty of other birds and wildlife in the immediate area too and if you’re lucky you may see baboons and monkeys in the lodge grounds.
I would have liked to stay another day at Gorges Lodge just to chill out, take in the views and swim in the pool and I’ll definitely book three nights on my next trip and would strongly suggest this as a minimum when visiting.
On my final morning I went for a pre-breakfast walk round the property. Gorges Lodge has ten of these stone cottages, four of which are larger than the one I stayed in. These have two floors and an extra room and are thus well-suited to families.
All have been built on the edge of the Batoka Gorge and have their own private garden area and covered veranda. I liked the fact that the chalets are set well apart from each other which increases the feeling of privacy. The orientation of each cottage helps too so you can laze on your porch watching the sun set over the Zambezi without intrusion.
The heart of the lodge itself with the bar, dining room, lounge, reception block and outdoor pool area is sited in the middle of the grounds with cottages on either side. All are connected by pathways and the edge of the gorge is dotted with viewpoints. Here’s a film clip from my early-morning wanderings:
Before leaving Gorges Lodge for the next stop on my trip, Bomani Tented Lodge on the edge of Hwange National Park, one more treat awaited. Accompanied by Beatrice, the receptionist at Gorges, I visited the village of Chisuma. Beatrice and many of the other staff at Gorges Lodge hail from Chisuma – and have a long journey to and from work each day. But the village benefits hugely from tourism and visiting should be a mandatory part of any stay at Gorges Lodge. The money you spend with Imvelo really makes a difference in this marginalised part of Zimbabwe – politics, tribalism and history have left Matabeleland with a far inferior infrastructure than for example Shonaland.
More on specific projects in future articles – at this stage I’ll let Imvelo explain the basics:
“Our lodges are part of Zimbabwe’s CAMPFIRE project, a community-based natural resource management project aimed at local community involvement in tourism and wildlife conservation. CAMPFIRE is the acronym for Communal Area Management Program for Indigenous Resources. The philosophy underlying the CAMPFIRE project is that people living with natural resources are best placed to manage them and that they should receive direct benefits as an incentive for looking after the resources.
The role of Gorges Lodge in Hwange Communal Land’s CAMPFIRE project involves conservation and non-consumptive utilisation of wildlife and other natural resources for the benefit of local communities. Gorges Lodge is a showpiece for a community-based tourism project. Having been involved with Hwange district’s CAMPFIRE program since 1993, Gorges Lodge is particularly successful in its tourism development due to its proximity to Victoria Falls. Since the inception of CAMPFIRE in Hwange district over US$ 1,600,000.00 has been paid to District Council & local communities through bed night levies, leasing of the land on which the lodge is built, and charges to tourists visiting the local villages, wages and development.
The money is used for infrastructure development (classrooms, clinics, water supplies and agriculture), wildlife conservation programmes, and conservation education. Establishment of telephone and electricity to the area has benefited local schools and clinics who have been able to connect to the services. Communities are actively involved in wildlife conservation through game scouts and village wildlife committees. These local institutions protect wildlife from illegal use. A unique conservation feature around Gorges lodge is the involvement of local people in the conservation of the wide variety of birds of prey found in the Batoka Gorge.
These include the rare Taita and Peregrine falcons, Bat hawks and several species of eagle. A sustainable and long-term revenue-earning venture has been developed through Gorges Lodge for Hwange Rural District. Because of the permanent development and infrastructure, local communities will carry on accruing revenue through tourism long into the future. Finally, involvement of local communities in tourism and conservation has provided an incentive for the people to protect and manage their natural resources.”
Regardless of your views on who is to blame and who should take responsibility, these people (and the animals we come to see) need help now. You get the experience of a lifetime in one of the most beautiful and friendly countries on the planet, the local communities get the assistance that they otherwise may have to wait years for and the wildlife in the parks gets protection. What’s not to like?
Since I was in town on a Saturday I was unable to visit the school to which Imvelo has given huge support over the years but I did get to experience real life in rural Zimbabwe at a family homestead. Conditions are very basic but the Nambyan people here in Chisuma are justifiably proud of their traditional way of life. After viewing the kitchen and cooking area as well as the bedrooms (boys in one hut, girls in another, parents with their own) I got to see a small part of the long and exhausting process of pounding and processing maize into nzema, the staple food of the area.
This rhythmic production process is the soundtrack to rural life all over Africa; it may go under many names but the basic concept is the same.
Sadly it was soon time to return to the lodge and grab my bags. Staying at Gorges Lodge had been an amazing experience and I was already planning my return – next time with my family. Imvelo’s property has one of the most spectacular settings in Africa, superb service and comfortable accommodation – and as if that wasn’t enough one of the true wonders of the natural world is just up the road.
There are activities for everyone both at the Lodge and in town and most importantly of all you can enjoy yourself knowing that your tourism spend is making a real difference. Not a single day has passed since I left Gorges without me dreaming about being back there – I think that says it all.
Gorges Lodge – Victoria Falls
Dinner, Bed and Breakfast USD 350 per person sharing, USD 455 single use
Rate includes accommodation, meals as stated and one return shuttle to town per paying night
Shuttles/Transfers: Airport or town USD 28 single
Grown-up Travel Guide’s Best Photos: Impala, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Impala seen from the historic tram ride with Shearwater Victoria Falls to the Victoria Falls Bridge. You don’t have to go far from town to encounter wildlife in Zimbabwe
#zimbabwesafari2014
The perfect base for your African safari – Bomani Tented Lodge in Zimbabwe
Do I ever? It’s true, that’s a big claim I’m making in that headline right there. But fear not, I’m going to convince you that I’m not writing cheques my story can’t cash.
Maybe so. Perhaps I should say that I’m not attempting a transaction for which my story has insufficient PayPal funds?
This trip to Zimbabwe was one of the best of my life – in just one short week I managed to pack in some incredible new experiences such as viewing the Victoria Falls from a helicopter, ziplining over the Zambezi, walking the catwalk under the Victoria Falls Bridge and of course living on the edge at Gorges Lodge. Actually this was all within the first three days – the remainder of my stay was spent at Bomani Tented Lodge where I finally got the chance to go on safari.
As regular readers will be aware I spent almost four years in Africa but this was twenty years ago and confined to the northern and western parts of the continent. With the exception of a few days in an extremely dilapidated national park in Ghana in the early 1990s where I did in fact see elephants, I had no prior experience of game viewing. Well I do now, and I’m hooked.
My contention is that whether you are also a complete newcomer to the magic of an African safari or an old hand with stamps from all the famous parks, you need to visit Zimbabwe. Look, if the previous articles have failed to spark your enthusiasm then perhaps you need to make sure your ticker is still ticking. There is so much to do at Victoria Falls that we had to split our article into two parts and who wouldn’t want to stay at Gorges Lodge?
But that’s only half the story – just a few hours’ drive from Imvelo’s clifftop property lies Bomani, located in a 5000 acre private concession in the Ngamo Forest Area on the threshold of the vast Hwange National Park.
Covering a staggering 14,600 square kilometers, Hwange is widely acknowledged to be one of the best parks in Africa for wildlife, and Bomani’s position in its unspoiled south-eastern corner is one of its biggest advantages. You won’t find convoys of jeeps encircling every poor lion or giraffe out here – this is the safari experience as it was supposed to be. I’ll tell you all about it in the next feature but for now let’s concentrate on the lodge itself.
So to pick up from where I left off – after a very rewarding village visit it was time to leave Gorges for the transfer to Bomani. Transport infrastructure in Zimbabwe is still in a dire state although there are tentative signs of improvement with new operators entering the field. It is possible to travel between the major cities by bus or (very slowly) by train, but to reach safari lodges in Hwange you will need to have a private transfer.
This is arranged at the time of booking so you don’t need to worry when you get there – if you are booking a package with Imvelo which includes both Gorges Lodge and Bomani, your transfers will be included. If you really want to travel in style you can opt to fly from Victoria Falls to Hwange National Park assuming the airstrip in Bomani is open; this is not usually the case in the rainy season.
Of course this is an expensive way to make an entrance but is sure to be spectacular – and with the airfield very close to Bomani you can be in camp an hour after taking off at Victoria Falls. As well as the cost, another point to consider is the restrictions on the amount of luggage you can take on the light aircraft – you may have to cut down your wardrobe a little.
If travelling by road the final part of the journey to Bomani also depends on the rains – the shortest route relies on a combination of an extremely vulnerable bridge and dirt roads that are impassable in the wet season. I was lucky enough to experience both routes as the river crossing was repaired in time for my departure. Having said that, it was still quite an experience, as ‘bridge’ is pushing it a little as you will see a little later.
Anyway, I took my seat in the comfortable minibus along with Martin and Carole and as well as an Australian couple who had arrived in Zimbabwe from Botswana that morning and were going straight to Bomani. We had plenty of time to get to know one another as the minibus blasted down the main road between Victoria Falls and Bulawayo which was in excellent condition.
We stopped a few times at toll barriers where those on duty collected the charges and were both polite and friendly – none of the “African road block tension” here. Otherwise our driver was able to keep motoring along at full speed as we took in the changing landscape around us.
It took about three and a half hours to reach Hwange Safari Lodge on the edge of the eponymous National Park. Here we were met by Sibs and Vusu – two guides from Bomani who along with their driver would take us on the final stretch to the camp. They had brought refreshments too and a cold beer and a sandwich were most welcome. Because the bridge on the River Gwai (see what I did there?) was still out of use, this section would take another three to four hours.
The dry season route cuts this down to one and a half but for me I enjoyed the adventure – we piled onto a 4WD safari vehicle which was open to the elements and were soon bumping along narrow, sandy ‘roads’ following the railway line a few metres to our right. Here’s a quick clip to give you an idea:
This certainly felt more like the Africa I remembered than an air conditioned bus, and whatever it lacked in comfort it made up for in fun.
For most of the journey we were driving on little more than tracks and regularly had to slow down to avoid being whipped by thorny branches encroaching on our path. Fortunately – and perhaps unsurprisingly – there was no other traffic so the fact that the we barely had room for the width of our own vehicle was not a problem.
It wasn’t long before we began to see wildlife – vultures, monkeys and giraffe were among the highlights. Our route took us through thick bush, forested areas and open plains with the railway a constant companion.
Somehow we managed to avoid the storm that seemed to threaten us for most of the journey and finally Vusu pointed to a sign on a tree, “Bomani”. We crossed the incredibly straight Victoria Falls to Bulwayo railway line and passed the airstrip to reach the plains on the edge of which Bomani Tented Lodge appeared.
It was starting to get dark and the main lodge building was a welcome sight after a day of travelling.
The vehicle pulled up at a set of steps and we climbed out, welcomed by the affable Big Boy and the rest of the Bomani staff.
The main building houses a bar and dining area as well as a lounge section with comfy chairs and a sofa – just the spot to enjoy the cold beer we were offered and listen to Big Boy explain how things worked at Bomani.
Big Boy is a real character and his friendly and fun attitude is infectious. Having got our attention, he went on to tell us what we needed to know about life in camp.
Despite having all the comforts guests need, a safari lodge is not simply a hotel in the bush. First of all, Bomani is located in an isolated area with no easy access to supplies. Ensuring that there is enough food and drink for guests and staff requires deft logistical skills and forward planning.
Clearly they know what they are doing as we experienced no problems in the five days I was there, which given the fluctuating number of guests was quite an achievement and testament to a Zimbabwean trait I became familiar with during my stay. I heard many stories and examples of Zimbabweans being faced with seemingly impossible challenges simply deciding to “make a plan” – a common response to adversity.
This explains how they managed to cope with the staggering inflation, food shortages and other hardships during the worst of the economic meltdown – it may not be the answer to everything but that kind of mentality helps more than just thinking “oh, it’ll be alright”.
Another big difference from a hotel is the fact that Bomani is effectively surrounded by wild animals. Okay, that makes it sound a little dramatic but there are no fences keeping elephants inside the National Park or signs that discourage lions from entering camp.
This is why it is forbidden for guests to walk back to their tents after dark without being accompanied by an armed guide. As Big Boy noted they have yet to lose a guest, safety is their number one priority and it makes sense to take care.
There’s no telling how an inexperienced visitor like myself would react to bumping into a lion in the darkness but it’s safe to assume it wouldn’t end well, so this is a rule nobody has a problem with. Since we would need to be up before dawn on occasion all we needed to do was arrange a wake-up call and collection from our tents when ready if it was still dark in the morning.
Electricity is available but rationed as a generator is used – basically power is limited to the morning and evening, which coincided well with when it was required.
Water is heated by burning wood in stoves for each tent; these are lit in the evening and provide plenty of piping hot water for a long shower after a day on safari. I also found that the tank remained warm the next morning too so I never had a problem.
The camp even had WiFi in the main area but this was understandably very slow and when I visited I had no mobile phone coverage at all, which I actually enjoyed. A new mast was about to be commissioned for the area though so Bomani is probably on the grid already – and WiFi has likely improved too. But leave your phone in your bag – there’s far more for you here than Facebook.
Bomani offers two different types of tented accommodation as well as one thatched bungalow aimed at families. On one side of the main building (where I stayed) you’ll find the five “Hornbill” tents which are raised about a metro above the ground and have great views over the Ngama Plain in front of the lodge.
On the other side are the four larger and more luxurious “Spurwing” suites and the bungalow which are on ground level and overlook the waterhole.
After our briefing I was shown to my accommodation. As you can see from the video below, this is not your average leaky, cramped canvas tent, but rather a spacious, semi-permanent construction with an en suite bathroom and a terrace to enjoy the view over the plains.
Mounted on wooden decking, the Hornbill tents come with floor-standing fans, one or two beds, a separate bathroom with shower, toilet and basin as well as a wardrobe and mosquito netting on all windows in the bedroom. The bathroom is a little more open to the elements which helps keep it cooler – this is a blessing during the heat of the day. Water pressure was excellent and as mentioned before I had plenty of hot water – couples could economize by sharing the shower too as it was big enough…
The climate at Bomani is wonderful – I was there at the start of the dry season but despite being warm all year round while the sun is up there is little or no humidity which makes it easy to cope even for us northern Europeans. Best of all, it can actually get chilly at night so you won’t be tossing and turning in a sweat waiting for sleep to kick in.
Trust me when I tell you that few experiences can match that of snuggling under a blanket listening to the sounds of the African bush after an unforgettable day viewing wildlife. Particularly when that day concluded with drinks round the campfire before a hearty meal and a glass or two of wine swapping stories with new friends. As I touched upon in my review of Gorges Lodge, this is real luxury travel and it’s a privilege worth saving up for – you’ll get a priceless return on your money.
All rooms are equipped with an emergency whistle and mobile LED lamp (don’t forget to charge it up if you use it) and mosquito repellant and toiletries are provided. I didn’t see a single mosquito during my stay but I was religious in my use of both mosquito coils and repellant and I suggest you do the same. Malaria is endemic in much of Zimbabwe so don’t forget to take those tablets too.
A great perk of staying at Bomani is the free laundry service – this means you can travel light safe in the knowledge that your clothes will be cleaned during the day and can be worn again.
And did I mention the view?
All food and drink is included with the exception of premium wines and imported liquor. As mentioned before the team at Bomani are experts in stock control and manage to ensure supplies don’t run dry. Guests help themselves to beer, soft drinks and water from the fridge in the main lodge building and enjoy a variety of home-cooked meals while staying at the lodge.
Overall the quality of the meals was good and portions were extremely generous. As in Zimbabwe in general meat is extremely popular and if you are a weird vegetarian or have special dietary requirements make sure you give Imvelo notice and they’ll make arrangements for you.
In general a light breakfast is served before the early game drive and then brunch/lunch awaits you on your return. Dinner is in the evening and plenty of snacks and drinks are served during the day so you won’t go hungry. Vehicles are equipped with cold boxes for those perfect sundowners on safari.
Obviously the main activity is wildlife viewing, but this takes several forms and there are many other rewarding ways to use your time at Bomani.
As well as morning, afternoon and night game drives you can go on a game walk or join an all-day “pump run”. This entails visiting the waterholes to supply fuel and oil for the diesel engines that pump the water as well as food rations and wages for their operators. Hwange National Park has no large rivers and wildlife survives on pumped water as it has done for over 70 years. Imvelo Safari Lodges is responsible for 8 pumped waterholes in this area of the park. After making deliveries lunch is enjoyed by the waterhole before an afternoon game drive during the journey back to the lodge stopping for sundowners and snacks en route.
Due to the ample rains that had fallen in the weeks before my visit, a pump run was not necessary as the animals had plenty of water without the need for starting the engines. Instead I had more time to visit Imvelo’s social and projects which was a fantastic experience and deserving of an entire article – which of course it will be given. Watch this space for in-depth features on both my first safari and visiting the local villages and schools helped by Imvelo Safari Lodges.
Just like at Gorges Lodge, all of the staff working at Bomani come from neighboring villages – another direct benefit for the communities bordering the national park.
After a truly life-changing stay at Bomani Tented Lodge it was not easy to leave. But all good things must come to an end, and for my return journey the camp staff had received word that the Gwai River bridge was open again so I would have a quicker journey back to Victoria Falls for my flight back to JoBurg and on to Europe.
We left just after first light and it was a spectacular ride – this video will show what I meant about the rather interesting definition of the word “bridge”.
And of the word “open”, for that matter 
The skill and experience of Bomani’s driver were put to good use, and with the help of our seriously powerful 4WD vehicle we made it across and on to the tarmac road a few minutes later. Swapping vehicles at Halfway House (a hotel whose best days are sadly far in the past) the rest of the journey went without a hitch.
Even now, many weeks later, I think of my time in Zimbabwe every day and cannot wait to return with my wife and daughter to share the excitement and adventure of an African safari. Bomani Tented Lodge is the perfect base for such a safari – the seclusion of the location along with the vast amount of wildlife is an appealing combination. Add the expert guides, service-minded and friendly staff at the lodge, the social and conservation work being carried out by Imvelo to which guests are making a real contribution and the comfortable accommodation and you’ve everything you need.
For a genuine safari experience, come to Zimbabwe. For the ideal place to stay, come to Bomani. Combine a few days here with a few at Gorges Lodge and you’ll have the holiday of a lifetime – just like I did. And I haven’t even told you the half of it yet, so check back for the rest of the story!
Bomani Tented Lodge – Hwange National Park
All inclusive rates:
Hornbill Tents: USD 285 per person sharing, USD 371 single use
Spurwing Tented Suites: USD 315 per person sharing, USD 410 single use
Family Suite: USD 335 per person sharing, USD 436 single use
Rate includes accommodation, all meals, soft drinks, beers, wine and local spirits, laundry, transfers from Sipepa, Hwange Main Camp, Halfway House or the Lodge airstrip, game activities as available including walks, drives, all-day excursions and night drives, parl entry fees per paying night, visit to local village, tour of village school and service of licensed guide on safari
ROAD TRANSFER
Victoria Falls – Halfway House/ vice versa – US$100 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
Bomani – Hwange Main Camp / vice versa – US$40 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
AIR CHARTER
Victoria Falls – Bomani Air Strip (dry season) – US$390 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
Victoria Falls – Sipepa Air Strip (wet season) – US$430 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
Grown-up Travel Guide’s Best Photos: Crowned Cranes, Hwange, Zimbabwe
Spotted near Bomani Tented Lodge in Zimbabwe
#zimbabwesafari2014
My first African safari – Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
It took me 44 years, but I got there in the end. In 2014 I finally got to realise what all the fuss is about. Actually, I guess I knew what the fuss was about but going on safari in Africa far exceeded my expectations and made me understand why this particular experience is at or near the top of so many bucket lists.
If you’re a fan of this website then you are probably one of those people who wants a little more from their holiday. Perhaps in truth a fortnight on the beach reading bestsellers is more of a trial than a vacation.
Maybe you want to come back from your travels with more than a Bloomingdale’s Big Brown Bag. Don’t get me wrong – lazy days in the sun or frenetic shopping in New York are fun too, and this is not about travel snobbery. I can assure you I’m not going to get into that tired old ‘traveller versus tourist’ debate.
However I do believe that every single one of you should plan on an African safari at least once in your lives, and in this article I’m going to try to explain why…
The urge to get back to nature and away from the stress and claustrophobia of modern life is a major reason why a safari holds such appeal; but there are other ways to ‘get away from it all’.
Living in Norway I’m lucky enough to be able to escape to the hills and forests with ease and perhaps I appreciate this even more having grown up in South London. But solitude is one thing – coming face to face with Africa’s wildlife is another.
Nothing can prepare you for your first sighting – you’ll be pinching yourself to check if that elephant twenty feet away is really there. You’ll learn all about the animals and life in the bush; you’ll make new friends and share amazing experiences.
You’ll bask in the warmth of the African sun and be transfixed by the brightness of the stars in a sky that appears to be in some kind of super widescreen ultra high definition.
Above all, it will become clear to you just how incredible this planet of ours really is – and how vulnerable are its other inhabitants to the arrogance of man.
It might not turn you into a tree-hugger or vegetarian, but a safari in Africa will change your view of the world in a positive way and I guarantee that this great continent will get under your skin. Your holiday may be intended as a one-off trip of a lifetime, but you’ll be back…
It took me 20 years but there was never any doubt in my mind that I’d be return to Africa and I’m already looking forward to my next journey.
Planning a safari can be a daunting task as there are so many operators – and countries – to choose from. Deciding where, when and how to travel is beyond the scope of this particular post so I’ll just tell you about my own experience in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.
I’ve already made my case for why you should consider booking with Imvelo Safari Lodges and why Bomani Tented Lodge makes the perfect base when I reviewed the accommodation, and my next Zimbabwe article will show you the work that the company is doing with the local communities.
If you follow my advice, this is what you can expect:
Rather than an alarm clock, the TV turning itself on or a phone call from reception, your wake-up call is in the form of a softly-spoken “Knock-knock” outside your tent at the prearranged time. It’s a good idea to make an early start so you can catch the sunrise and the sounds of the wildlife surrounding the camp coming to life.
I arranged my ‘call’ for about 0545 every day but was usually awake a little before of my own accord – just lying in bed listening to the sounds of nature is a wonderful way to begin a new day. It sounds brutally early but you’ll be on a different rhythm here – one of early nights and early starts.
If you have hot water left from the night before you can take a shower – or use cold water if you’re struggling to wake up. I soon established a routine of slapping on the suncream and spraying on the insect repellant before getting dressed and making my way to breakfast. A steaming mug of coffee completed the preparatory process and a filling breakfast set me up for the morning.
Together with the rest of the group and our guides we discussed the plan for the day, and shortly after would set off on a game drive. This may include a walking safari as early morning is the best time for this activity and we would be back for “second breakfast” or brunch at around 1100. Then it’s time to relax or have a siesta until around 1500 when we would again gather at the main building for our second game drive which would conclude with sundowners in the bush.
We’d head back to camp just after dark and get cleaned up for dinner – preceded by drinks round the campfire. Most nights the restaurant was empty about 2230 after the last guest had been escorted to their tent and most of us were fast asleep soon after, dreaming of the day to come.
Your guide is the key to a successful and enjoyable safari – the amount of wildlife in the park is irrelevant if you can’t find it. As I’ve touched on before, Zimbabwe’s guides are recognised as among the best in Africa; it takes much longer to qualify as a guide than to complete a university degree and the first-time pass rate is under 10%. The training programme is not just about theory and learning about the enormous amount of flora and fauna – it also covers people management, tourism and environmental laws, first aid, vehicle maintenance, firearms and cookery.
It’s no surprise that Zimbabwe’s guides are sought-after in other countries and that during the economic crisis many quickly found work abroad. To this day, a certificate from Zimbabwe is almost a guarantee of an instant job offer from most safari companies. Happily many guides are now returning and are a major force in attracting tourists to their home country.
I had the privilege of being guided by Sibs – an extremely knowledgeable, friendly and down-to-earth guide with a great sense of humour. He had just joined Imvelo after working for other safari companies in Hwange and abroad – Sibs found work in Botswana and South Africa during the worst of the problems in Zimbabwe.
We also had a trainee with us, Vusu, who in line with company policy was from the local village. Vusu told us all about life in the bush and how tough it had been before Imvelo came into the picture. A former teacher, working in education had been the only possible career as a young boy and conditions were extremely difficult even when he secured the sough-after position at a run-down school. Things are different for many of his contemporaries who are schooled in modern classrooms and now have the opportunity to train as guides or for other jobs in the lodges and thus a future in the tourism industry in Zimbabwe.
The main activity while on safari is the game drive – at Bomani there are typically two per day; one right after a very early breakfast then another after an afternoon siesta period. Imvelo uses the classic safari vehicle – a modified Land Rover SUV which seats up to 7 guests and is very comfortable.
There is ample stowage space for each seat where you can keep your camera, binoculars, water etc. while on the move. Your guide will usually be driving and often has an assistant with him up front.
After going over a few simple rules (the majority of which are common sense like not leaving the vehicle and switching off your phone) we clambered aboard and were soon bumping our way along the trail from the lodge and into the National Park itself.
Everyone is encouraged to try to spot animals although it’s often hard to compete with the expertise of the guides who usually get there first. Binoculars are a must-have, and a good camera is essential too but no pictures (or even video) can quite replicate the experience. Having said that, this clip should whet your appetite – it covers my first morning on safari from waking at dawn to returning for lunch.
As you will have seen in the video, we also went on a walking safari. This is a thrilling experience, there is something very different about being on foot in the bush as opposed to being a few feet up on a vehicle.
Again it’s vital that you follow your guide’s instructions and we were also taught a few hand signal in case we would not be able to talk without disturbing (or annoying) an animal close by.
Sibs led the party and was carrying a rifle – just in case. He told us that in all his years as a guide he had never had to use it which is just as well – aside from having to kill one of the animals bullets cost around USD 12 each due to the embargo in force against arms to Zimbabwe, so it would be both expensive as well as tragic to have to pull the trigger.
With Vusu bringing up the rear we proceeded in single file and followed the trail of elephants and lion. It’s amazing how much these guys can interpret from some tracks in the dust.
Here are some of the highlights from the game drives I took while at Bomani.
As you will have seen in the first video, we didn’t even make it to the gate before we came upon a pride of lions – it was an amazing way to begin.
Sibs stopped the vehicle when they first appeared and gave us time to get photos and observe the group while telling us all about them. After it became clear where they were headed he started up the jeep once more and moved into a position where we would head them off – so the lions passed right by us.
I could feel the adrenaline rising during the encounter but I felt safe the entire time – it is easy to relax when in the hands of an expert who knows when if it is time to retreat.
Soon after we came upon a jackal watching us from a distance and Sibs managed to get closer to this guy too. Jackals are very attractive creatures with a slightly bad reputation – which is mostly undeserved.
Moving on again we passed a waterhole with a small group of large hippos keeping cool in the early morning sun.
We passed them several times each day but never once saw them leave the water or even stick their heads up enough for a proper photo. I mean really…
Waterbuck are magnificent animals, and the story about the reason they have the ring on their hind quarters is because they got stuck sitting on a freshly-pained toilet seat is an oldie but a goldie…
Wildebeest are everywhere at Hwange and the subject of much derision by guides who say that they were put together from all the bits left over from other animals.
They certainly have an uphill battle in the survival stakes as they are unable to stop their tails swishing which gives away their position to predators…
Impala are also very common but it takes a little patience to get this close – they are easily startled and run very fast.
This baboon was one of a huge group we saw several times.
Zebra are beautiful creatures, no?
Buffalo are really fun animals to meet. Not as fierce as they are reputed to be, they are incredibly curious animals and it’s quite unnerving to be watched so closely by so many huge buffalo – these were at the edge of a very large herd. The entire group just couldn’t seem to take their eyes off us…
The ostrich – one of nature’s strangest creations.
Steenbok are very timid and we were lucky to see this one before he sped into the distance.
And to complement the photos, here’s some more video footage from our game drives:
You should be planning a safari holiday – that’s the conclusion.
All the activities mentioned (and more besides) are included in the cost of your holiday with Imvelo Safari Lodges. If you have a week then do as I did – spend a couple of days at Victoria Falls and stay at Gorges Lodge before transferring to Bomani Tented Lodge. Imvelo is expanding and a new, top-end lodge has recently opened called Camelthorn which is very close to Bomani and a more remote camp in Hwange will commence business later this year.
In terms of value for money I would give the Gorges Lodge/Bomani combo full marks and this is the same itinerary I will use when I return with my wife and daughter.
It’s easy to miss this big fella watching us carefully as we drift past on a sunset cruise on the Zambezi in Zimbabwe. This was a wonderful way to relax after a busy day of activities in Victoria Falls and before the evening’s entertainment began…
#zimbabwesafari2014
The post Grown-up Travel Guide’s Best Photos: Hippo in the Zambezi River, Zimbabwe appeared first on Grown-up Travel Guide.com.
Last year I had one of the best trips of my life when I spent a week in Zimbabwe working with Imvelo Safari Lodges, a company that offers some of the best safari experiences you can have on the continent while helping both wildlife and the local community. I’ve been drip-feeding content ever since both here on the blog and on our various social media channels – just search for the #zimbabwesafari2014 hashtag on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Google + and Foursquare to see the posts related to this adventure.
I also promised you more and am currently working on an extensive article about the wildlife conservation and community projects which Imvelo runs in the country and which set the benchmark for responsible tourism in my book.
With this in mind I decided it would be a good time to republish some of the Zimbabwe content for those of you who may have missed it the first time round. I’ll review the accommodation and experiences I had at two of Imvelo’s properties soon but first of all I wanted to show you just how much you can pack into a single day at Victoria Falls…
To avoid confusion let me make it clear from the start that Victoria Falls is a town as well as the natural phenomenon itself.
It’s on the Zimbabwean side of the bridge that forms the border crossing into Zambia and has an international airport making it a preferred point of entry for many visitors to Zimbabwe.
You can reach Hwange National Park in a few hours on a good road – which is where the majority of travellers are destined for – but don’t rush off without experiencing one of the natural wonders of the world – ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ (‘the smoke that thunders’). It doesn’t stop there either – the town of Victoria Falls is one of the most tourist-oriented in Zimbabwe with a number of operators offering activities ranging from relaxing sundowner cruises to bungee jumping.
Imvelo Safari Lodges recommended Shearwater Victoria Falls – the oldest operator on the Zimbabwean side and a company with a superb reputation. Shearwater were keen for me to experience their activities and review them honestly for my readers so we emailed back and forth to end up with a programme for the one full day I had in town. In the interest of disclosure I received a 50% discount on the standard prices but my opinions – as always on Grown-up Travel Guide – are my own.
While on the subject of prices, I have included the rate for each individual activity but Shearwater also offers a range of combo deals. You can book several products together at a major discount so check the Shearwater website; you may be surprised how much you can save.
I’ll write more about the fascinating history of the Falls, the town, bridge, hotel and all that great stuff in later articles; first of all I’m going to concentrate on the activities themselves. With so many photos, video clips and words I’ve had to divide this into three parts
If you can, try to do this first. Nothing compares to seeing the Victoria Falls for the first time from the air. When I visited the water levels were extremely high due to exceptionally good – and late – rains, and the sheer amount of mist generated obscured the view from ground level. To really understand the scale of the falls – take to the air.
The name of this helicopter trip comes from the writings of David Livingstone. It’s hard to imagine the impact of seeing the Victoria Falls for the first time with no prior knowledge of their existence, but when he did so in 1855 he wrote that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. Now you can get an angel’s eye view of one of the natural wonders of the world…
In addition to the 13-minute “Flight of Angels” there is a 25-minute “Zambezi Spectacular” flight which covers a wider area, but you won’t feel shortchanged by the shorter version.
Shearwater owns the Zambezi Helicopter Company which is the largest private helicopter company in Zimbabwe and they will transport you to the departure point for your tour which is a few minutes from their town centre offices. I was lucky enough to get a place on the first helicopter tour of the day which was scheduled for 0830.
The flight was full which in our case meant 6 passengers plus the pilot – 5 in the back of the helicopter and one upfront. No matter where you sit you’ll have a great view, and the route includes both left-hand and right-hand circuits over the Falls so passengers on both sides get equal treatment.
Our group was blessed with perfect weather conditions and after a short briefing it was time to get going – while nothing beats the real thing I filmed the ride on my GoPro so you can see why you can’t afford to miss out on this experience. You’ll see that about half way through the film the chopper swings over so that those of us on the right get a stunning view of the Falls too. It’s in full 1080P too, so turn on HD quality and enjoy!
After landing we were ushered into a viewing room to watch the souvenir DVD put together while we were in the air, comprising footage shot by their photographer when we arrived and cut together with images, video and facts about the Falls. There’s no pressure to accept the offer and after the screening you’ll be driven back to town.
Prices at time of visit: Flight of Angels USD 140 Zambezi Spectacular USD 265
I had an hour or so to kill before the next event on my schedule, the historic tram ride to the Bridge. Trish at Shearwater suggested I had a look at the legendary Victoria Falls hotel and as the tram leaves from the station right outside the building it was on my way.
Despite its popularity Victoria Falls town is a small and easy-going town – as a tourist you’ll attract a certain amount of attention from would-be guides and souvenir sellers but never feel intimidated or that your polite ‘no thank you’ is ignored.
I had my first wildlife sighting during the walk to the hotel – first a family of warthogs crossed the road then a group of monkeys came the other way.
The Victoria Falls Hotel is an impressive example of colonial extravagance and and well worth visiting, the staff don’t mind if you look round and nobody tries to make you sit down and buy a drink in the bar.
Of course you may be tempted into doing so to fully enjoy the beautiful view from the terrace.
The impeccably kept gardens and enviable location are two major draws but a lot of people find a visit to the bathrooms just as interesting if online discussions are anything to go by.
Unlike many other ‘grand hotels’ in Africa this one had kept up with developments and offers all the modern comforts you’d expect from a luxury property. Indeed the Victoria Falls Hotel remains one of Africa’s best hotels – just as it was over 100 years ago. Next time, I’m going to have to stay here but right now I have a tram to catch…
A short distance from the hotel a red carpet lead to the platform of the Victoria Falls Station. Upon arrival I met up with Patience, a Shearwater representative who would be joining me for the tour as well as the other passengers.
After a refreshing drink the tram came to pick us up. A new vehicle modelled on the 19th century design, this is an open-sided diesel tram with eight rows of bench seats. Our driver and guide took their places and a waiter offered us further refreshments for the 20-minute journey to the Victoria Falls Bridge.
After leaving the station and crossing the main road in town we were soon into the bush and right away we spotted several Impala watching us.
The driver stopped to allow us to observe and take photographs before we slowly pulled away again.
I’d read stories about all sorts of wildlife wandering through town and the proximity to nature became even clearer a few minutes later when we saw these elephants just a few metres from the entrance to the Rainforest National Park.
Since the Bridge is located in ‘no mans land’ between Zimbabwe and Zambia you will need to have your passport with you. This is just a formality and on the tram ride one of the crew members collected our documents to show to the Zimbabwean authorities. While we waited rain fell steadily from the skies – but of course this was in fact spray from the Falls produced by the huge amount of mist I’d seen from the chopper.
Border procedures completed we were off again and just a few minutes away the Bridge came into view.
Trundling over we passed the bungee platform and I caught a glimpse of the zip line. This was going to be good!
Arriving on the other side of the bridge we disembarked the tram for the Bridge Cafe.
This is the only restaurant in either country with a view of the face of the Falls. The cafe is built on a platform over the Batoka Gorge and is the perfect location to watch other people do crazy things while taking it easy with a cold beer or a bite to eat.
On this occasion I was to be one of the ‘other people’. As I’d booked a Bridge Slide I was taken aside to get into my harness and go through a safety briefing while the rest of our group kicked back and put their orders in…
As mentioned previously I swore to my wife I wouldn’t try bungee jumping for the first time while travelling on my own in Africa, but I did get permission to try the Bridge Slide (zip line) across the gorge. It was fantastic, but again I’ll let the GoPro do the talking:
This experience is marketed as family-friendly and the mildest of the Bridge activities. I would agree, and add that I felt absolutely safe the entire time as the staff are professional, give clear instructions and instil confidence in their customers. The equipment is in perfect condition and safety is taken very seriously – those ropes can bear a huge amount of weight.
As you can see you are pulled in by a guy on the other side and you then need to walk a short way under the bridge to the exit point.
Price at time of visit: Bridge Slide USD 40 single USD 265
Having walked back over the bridge to the cafe I rejoined the rest of my group for the Historic Bridge Tour. This starts with a theatrical performance with an actor playing the part of Georges Imbauly, the Frenchman who was the Chief Construction Engineer for the Victoria Falls Bridge.
Kitted out in period costume, he regaled us with stories from the construction, anecdotes from the notorious drinking sessions after each day’s work at the Victoria Falls Hotel (which was built first) and some impressive facts and figures. It may sound a little cheesy but it really isn’t – this was one of the highlights of the day and both informative and a lot of fun.
Once the presentation was over we were given full safety harnesses once more as it was time to join our architect friend to walk beneath the Bridge.
#zimbabwesafari2014
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Since I am currently in Botswana and off the grid for a few days (no wi-fi, no mobile phone signal – what bliss!) it seemed appropriate to republish a few articles from my last trip to the most exciting continent in the world. Last year I experienced Zimbabwe for the first time – and I thoroughly recommend you do the same…
This is the second part of the story – check out the morning in Victoria Falls here
Pulling on my harness for the next part of the tour, I was a little taken aback when Monsieur Georges Imbault himself came over to help me adjust the straps. No longer in his role as the French engineer, our host was now preparing to lead us across the catwalk underneath the bridge and was clearly an expert in safety too.
Look closely at the picture of the Victoria Falls Bridge above which was taken from the other side of the gorge later in the day (the Zimbabwean side). Just under the roadway, running the length of the bridge is a narrow catwalk. This is the original access route used in the construction and maintenance of the structure – and if you sign up for the tour you get to walk it…
Some people actually find this more of a challenge than the zip line or even a bungee jump and I do understand that anyone who has a problem with heights might struggle. Rest assured that safety is again paramount and each of us had two lines on our harness fitted with carabiners which we would use to attach to the safety wire running the length of the bridge walkway.
We were instructed to keep at least one of these attached to the wire at all times, unclipping the other as necessary to move round obstructions. It was the same system I had used after the bridge slide and at climbing parks in Europe and each line is extremely strong.
This clip will show you what to expect:
As you can see the walkway is made of metal mesh so you get a great view straight down – but this may not be everyone’s cup of tea. Indeed two of our group had their doubts which proved to be founded when half way across, but to the guide’s credit he talked them though and nobody had to turn back.
One of them cried most of the way but I think she was glad she didn’t give up. I found it an amazing experience and an excellent way to fully understand just how incredible the Bridge design is – especially considering it was built in 1905!
After completing the walk we received a certificate and it was time to bid goodbye to our genial host and get back on board the tram for the journey back to Zimbabwe.
Another round of cold drinks were most welcome as our driver fired up the engine and we headed back to the border post. I left the tram shortly after at the entrance to the National Park as the next item on my agenda was to see the Falls from the ground.
To get up close and personal with one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, head here. The views from the Zimbabwean side are better and the park is very well maintained despite all the problems in the country and the huge number of visitors. As well as the sight of the Falls there is a unique rainforest environment here due to the consistently damp microclimate, with a wealth of flora and fauna which have adapted to it.
A looping route leads from the entrance and visitor’s centre to the first of 16 viewpoints from which you can see – and hear – the Victoria Falls.
Perhaps the best place to start is at Livingstone’s statue where you can try to imagine what went through his mind here in 1855.
Having done so, I was soon making my way down the slippery steps to gaze upon the Devil’s Cataract in all its thunderous glory – and realising that this is but one section of the Falls themselves.
I put together a video from the footage I shot during my time in the park which you can see here:
Filming and taking photographs is not easy due to the spray which gets heavier as you move eastwards. I seriously regretted not having brought a waterproof jacket – especially a little later when what I assumed was just increasing mist turned out to be the mother of all tropical storms. Being in an open area devoid of shelter and at the furthest possible point from the cafe or visitors centre, there was little I could do about it and I was soaked to the skin.
By the time I made it to the cafe I was able to literally empty about half a litre of water from each of my boots and to wring a similar quantity from my shirt and trousers. The skies cleared a few minutes later and my clothes dried quickly, but my feet were squelching for the rest of the night. Lesson learned.
The Rainforest Café is a good place to have lunch – or dry out – or both in my case. I found they had a decent menu, good coffee, cold beer and blankets for wet guests which ticked all the boxes as far as I was concerned. Nearby you can learn all about the Falls at the Interpretive Centre and a well-stocked souvenir shop.
Patience had made arrangements with the staff of the cafe so that I could tell the waitress when I was ready to be picked up and Shearwater would send a driver. In the end I met some people from the Lodge where I was staying who offered me a lift back and on arrival at the office Patience told me she already knew I was on my way – word travels fast in Victoria Falls.
With the weather now much improved I was picked up at 4pm to be taken to the next event – a sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Sipping a sundowner while watching the sun go down is something of a tradition in these parts, and who am I to question tradition?
Shearwater runs several vessels from a jetty about ten minutes’ drive from their office, as do a number of other companies, but the concept is basically the same. For your money you get a relaxing, two-hour cruise with complimentary drinks and snacks.
You’ll see wildlife and plenty of birds and be treated to a wonderful sunset, weather conditions permitting.
The two-deck boats sail downstream before reaching the point of no return with the mist from the Victoria Falls in the distance, before turning and travelling upstream until sundown. Roll the film!
If you prefer photos…
Hey – did you see something in the water?
Aha! Hard to imagine how these big lugs can be so dangerous, but they are and kill hundreds of people each year. So a zoom lens is preferable to getting closer.
Nearly there…
There you go. Picture-postcard stuff.
Just managing to avoid the coming storm we landed back where we started and boarded the waiting bus. This took passengers to various destinations and in my case to the final activity of the day – dinner!
I was pretty exhausted by this stage, but soon perked up when I got to Boma. It is a tourist trap, but it’s a good one. Offering a huge buffet with all sorts of grilled meat, vegetables, local specialities and desserts accompanied by cultural performances it’s great fun, but probably better enjoyed in company.
Very popular with large groups, it’s also good for families and couples but being on my own I felt a little out of place and also felt that the waiters saw me as a low value customer. I was also largely ignored by the wandering salesmen peddling everything from aphrodisiac drinks to fortune-telling services but did notice that they were not the persistent type and nobody was hassled during their meals.
This didn’t stop me enjoying myself though and the food was excellent and the wine most welcome. After choosing from a menu of starters I made several journeys to the various food sections (for research purposes, of course). My research included succulent warthog steak but did not encompass mopani worms.
The music and dance shows were great but I left before things really got going – later on there are drumming sessions where audience participation is encouraged and the opportunity to watch uncomfortable foreigners trying to dance. Not wanting to be one of the latter I called my driver from Gorges Lodge as arranged and made my getaway into the night. Lasting from dawn to dusk, and then a bit more, this had truly been one of the most exhilarating days of my life.
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Having promised my wife I wouldn’t bungee jump without her – or rather not do anything so stupid on my own – I kept my word, naturally. However I did receive clearance for the Bridge Slide (zipline), one of Shearwater Victoria Falls‘ many activities. It might be lamer than the bungee or the pendulum swing, but it was still an incredible experience. This shot was taken just before my ride and don’t worry, I filmed the whole thing using my faithful GoPro camera so as soon as I finish editing it you’ll be able to see whether I screamed the entire length of the wire or kept my composure in a very British manner…
#zimbabwesafari2014
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Last year I experienced Zimbabwe for the first time – and I thoroughly recommend you do the same…
As this picture of the bar area suggests, Gorges Lodge is no ordinary hotel. When I looked through my notes, video footage and photographs I realized that a regular hotel review would not do the place justice and have therefore taken a different approach in this article. As well as the actual accommodation I’ve included details of the activities which are available and touched upon the work of Imvelo Safari Lodges who manage the property – but expect much more on the latter in future articles.
The descent into Victoria Falls airport was spectacular even though I was on the wrong side of the aircraft to get much of a view of the Falls themselves.
At this distance it’s hard to imagine what lies beneath that mist – but I’d be finding out the next day.
For an international airport, Victoria Falls is tiny but well organized and after obtaining my visa on arrival – for which UK citizens pay more than most but for some reason less than Canadians – I waited for my case. Instead of a carousel the baggage from the South African Airways flight was brought into the arrivals area by hand and all I needed to do was find a trolley.
The first thing that struck me was the complete lack of hassle. By which I mean that nobody was trying to make a quick buck by carrying cases, offering to guide me to a taxi or any of the myriad of schemes that new arrivals often get exposed to in other countries.
I had to send my luggage through a scanner and then load it back on the trolley before leaving the arrivals hall. I was met by Richman, a friendly driver from Gorges Lodge who was evidently experienced enough to ask if I wanted to use the bathroom before the journey that he expected to take about 40 minutes. A small touch, but a nice one.
After loading my gear into the pick-up we were soon on our way and the excitement of being back in Africa for the first time in 20 years was intense. Richman and I talked at length about my time in Ghana et. al. back in the day and his life in present-day Zimbabwe.
Soon we left the asphalt that continues to the town of Victoria Falls for a dirt road that was in a fairly rough state after the prolonged rains this year. But Richman knew the route well and expertly steered round the worst of the pot holes. During the dry season the road will be graded once more which will cut the journey time, but the slow pace gave me the opportunity to take in the countryside.
Now and again we got a glimpse of the mist from the Falls on the horizon which looked more like smoke from a huge fire. Homesteads and small but extremely well-kept villages dotted the landscape before we reached the sign for Gorges Lodge and turned onto the final sandy stretch leading to the outer gate.
After closing the gate behind us Richman jumped back in and a few minutes later the reception building came into view. Debbie, who manages Gorges Lodge with her husband Chris, came to greet me and I was given a cold towel. I received the key to chalet number two after check-in formalities were completed, my bags were unloaded from the vehicle and would be taken to my room – but first I was invited to have a cold drink at the bar.
Walking through the reception block and following a stone path through the beautiful gardens we entered the restaurant building to emerge at the bar. For once, the actual experience surpassed the pictures on the website or promotional material – it was far better.
Perched 250 metres above the Zambezi on the edge of the Batoka Gorge, it’s surely impossible not to have your breath taken away by the view. If you look really closely here you’ll see some white-water rafters nearing the end of their journey from Victoria Falls down there, as yet unaware of the climb that awaits them to reach the road…
Suitably refreshed by both the drink and the cool breeze in the bar, I was shown to my cottage by Debbie and had a few hours to relax after my long journey. Clearly any sensible person would have got some sleep but I was a little too fired up to doze.
Chalet number 2 was large and comfortable, with a high thatched ceiling and fans to keep the temperature manageable. Sure enough, my bags awaited me in the room and to celebrate my safe arrival (any excuse, right?) I opened a cold beer from the mini-bar and went out onto the veranda to drink in the view.
Eventually it was time to unpack and have a good look round my chalet – and I took the opportunity to film a walkthrough which you can see here:
A major refurbishment project is nearing completion and I was lucky enough to stay in one of the renovated chalets – although it had no wardrobe as the supplier had not yet delivered. I had no problem living out of my case for the two nights I was staying there and by the time you read this all ten cottages are likely to be fully fitted and redesigned.
The bedroom featured two large double beds with mosquito nets, a seating area and small table, well-stocked mini-bar and fridge built into the wall, remotely controlled ceiling fans, tea and coffee making equipment and ample power sockets.
The large bathroom contained a huge double-head shower (although the water pressure wasn’t great, but adequate), double washbasins and toiletries including insect repellant which is a good touch. There is a separate toilet and the bathroom has a ceiling fan too.
I should probably point out that Gorges Lodge has electricity 24 hours a day as well as hot and cold running water and excellent Wi-Fi in the main bar area. I found it harder to get a cellphone signal, but this is the sort of place where being off the grid is a real plus point, rather than a drawback.
Moving back into the bedroom, the veranda is accessible through the screened doors where a view like no other awaits. With a table and seating area all you need to add is a good book and a cold beer for the ultimate relaxation to the soundtrack of the mighty river below.
In terms of the standard of the cottage accommodation, it was excellent although there were a few minor niggles which I’m sure the management will address. The mosquito screening on the doors and windows needed replacement as there were many large holes and a few in the nets over the beds.
The door out to the balcony was hard to keep closed – the magnetic fastening was clearly worn. This also encourages insects to enter the room, of course. I think the bedroom would benefit from being a little brighter – nothing that a lick of paint, some attention to the lighting and just a few colourful objects wouldn’t fix.
But this really is nit-picking. Gorges Lodge is fantastic value and the all-round experience pushes the property high into the luxury bracket. Luxury is of course subjective; in my opinion it is not about exclusive wines or spa treatments. Both are nice, but real luxury comes from enjoying unforgettable experience with a good level of comfort rather than a pillow menu or imported chantilly cream.
Unpacked and ready for action, I made my way to the reception area where I met up with Debbie’s daughter, Carrie and was introduced to a couple of other guests. I clambered on the bench seats on the back of the Lodge’s Land Rover together with Martin, one half of an English couple who had arrived that day.
His wife joined Carrie in the cab and we set off for Dibu-Dibu, another part of the Gorges property where wine, nibbles and eagle-watching awaited.
On arrival at the viewing area where we were joined by another guest from Brazil and Carrie explained what was going to happen. Debbie would out put some meat further up the gorge near her house and hopefully attract a black eagle that called this area home. We could watch this all from a safe distance with a glass of wine in hand.
Sure enough, soon we saw a huge bird swoop past us on its way up the gorge and feed from the fence at the bottom of Debbie’s garden.
As an introduction to the wildlife of Zimbabwe, it was a great start. As night fell and the wine flowed, our small group got to know each other and swapped stories as the stars began to shine upon us from the clear night sky.
It’s a cliche, but it’s true: the night sky in Africa is stunning. We even saw the International Space Station shoot past – Martin had checked online and let us know when to expect it and it turned up on cue.
A couple of glasses later it was time to return to the Lodge as a local dance troupe was going to entertain us before dinner.
Returning to the reception area once more we found a row of chairs set up for us and the darkness broken by a rack of powerful lights trained on what would be the ‘stage’. A few minutes later the Chisuma Gorge Boys appeared and began their show, led by the irrepressible Sebenze.
I’ve seen a lot of dance troupes over the years in Africa and the experience is always great, but these guys really excelled and having front-row seats was a privilege. I captured some of their performance on film as you can see below. Caution: contains white people dancing…
Yes, I did shake my stuff too but we’ll leave that to the imagination. I am in the process of ensuring that any footage recorded by the other guests is permanently destroyed…
When the show drew to a close we were shown to the lawn by the swimming pool where dinner was ready. A barbecue buffet of wholesome and tasty food accompanied by wine and more importantly great company.
I was seated at a long table with Debbie and her extended family (she had some relatives visiting) and as the evening progressed I realised that life really doesn’t get much better than this. Good food, meeting new people, telling and hearing stories accompanied by freely-flowing wine and beer – all of this under the stars on a warm African night. This is luxury.
Returning to my chalet with a torch-wielding escort I reflected on the fact that this would be the first overnight stay in Africa for nearly twenty years – what on earth was I thinking? For true Grown-up Travel, no other continent comes close.
Waking at dawn I caught the beautiful sunrise and packed for visit to Victoria Falls town. It looked like a perfect morning for my helicopter trip and I needed to get moving early. A transfer vehicle would meet me at 0730 to allow plenty of time to get to the Shearwater offices in town and I was the first and only guest at breakfast.
With a good selection of both hot and cold food I was set up for the day and I can say for certain that I’d never enjoyed bacon and eggs in such a spectacular location before…
All of the experiences I enjoyed at Victoria Falls can be booked through Gorges Lodge, who also use Shearwater as their company of choice. Imvelo offers a range of packages with accommodation and activities included in the price, as well as a transfer to and from the town.
Full details of the adventures I had can be found in two articles here on Grown-up Travel Guide; there was so much to do I had to split the day into the morning and the afternoon.
There are plenty of other activities they can arrange with Shearwater too; white-water rafting, game drives and even a day trip into Botswana.
At the lodge itself you can visit the local village, take part in a guided walk along the Gorge and enjoy the aforementioned eagle-watching. There are plenty of other birds and wildlife in the immediate area too and if you’re lucky you may see baboons and monkeys in the lodge grounds.
I would have liked to stay another day at Gorges Lodge just to chill out, take in the views and swim in the pool and I’ll definitely book three nights on my next trip and would strongly suggest this as a minimum when visiting.
On my final morning I went for a pre-breakfast walk round the property. Gorges Lodge has ten of these stone cottages, four of which are larger than the one I stayed in. These have two floors and an extra room and are thus well-suited to families.
All have been built on the edge of the Batoka Gorge and have their own private garden area and covered veranda. I liked the fact that the chalets are set well apart from each other which increases the feeling of privacy. The orientation of each cottage helps too so you can laze on your porch watching the sun set over the Zambezi without intrusion.
The heart of the lodge itself with the bar, dining room, lounge, reception block and outdoor pool area is sited in the middle of the grounds with cottages on either side. All are connected by pathways and the edge of the gorge is dotted with viewpoints. Here’s a film clip from my early-morning wanderings:
Before leaving Gorges Lodge for the next stop on my trip, Bomani Tented Lodge on the edge of Hwange National Park, one more treat awaited. Accompanied by Beatrice, the receptionist at Gorges, I visited the village of Chisuma. Beatrice and many of the other staff at Gorges Lodge hail from Chisuma – and have a long journey to and from work each day. But the village benefits hugely from tourism and visiting should be a mandatory part of any stay at Gorges Lodge. The money you spend with Imvelo really makes a difference in this marginalised part of Zimbabwe – politics, tribalism and history have left Matabeleland with a far inferior infrastructure than for example Shonaland.
More on specific projects in future articles – at this stage I’ll let Imvelo explain the basics:
“Our lodges are part of Zimbabwe’s CAMPFIRE project, a community-based natural resource management project aimed at local community involvement in tourism and wildlife conservation. CAMPFIRE is the acronym for Communal Area Management Program for Indigenous Resources. The philosophy underlying the CAMPFIRE project is that people living with natural resources are best placed to manage them and that they should receive direct benefits as an incentive for looking after the resources.
The role of Gorges Lodge in Hwange Communal Land’s CAMPFIRE project involves conservation and non-consumptive utilisation of wildlife and other natural resources for the benefit of local communities. Gorges Lodge is a showpiece for a community-based tourism project. Having been involved with Hwange district’s CAMPFIRE program since 1993, Gorges Lodge is particularly successful in its tourism development due to its proximity to Victoria Falls. Since the inception of CAMPFIRE in Hwange district over US$ 1,600,000.00 has been paid to District Council & local communities through bed night levies, leasing of the land on which the lodge is built, and charges to tourists visiting the local villages, wages and development.
The money is used for infrastructure development (classrooms, clinics, water supplies and agriculture), wildlife conservation programmes, and conservation education. Establishment of telephone and electricity to the area has benefited local schools and clinics who have been able to connect to the services. Communities are actively involved in wildlife conservation through game scouts and village wildlife committees. These local institutions protect wildlife from illegal use. A unique conservation feature around Gorges lodge is the involvement of local people in the conservation of the wide variety of birds of prey found in the Batoka Gorge.
These include the rare Taita and Peregrine falcons, Bat hawks and several species of eagle. A sustainable and long-term revenue-earning venture has been developed through Gorges Lodge for Hwange Rural District. Because of the permanent development and infrastructure, local communities will carry on accruing revenue through tourism long into the future. Finally, involvement of local communities in tourism and conservation has provided an incentive for the people to protect and manage their natural resources.”
Regardless of your views on who is to blame and who should take responsibility, these people (and the animals we come to see) need help now. You get the experience of a lifetime in one of the most beautiful and friendly countries on the planet, the local communities get the assistance that they otherwise may have to wait years for and the wildlife in the parks gets protection. What’s not to like?
Since I was in town on a Saturday I was unable to visit the school to which Imvelo has given huge support over the years but I did get to experience real life in rural Zimbabwe at a family homestead. Conditions are very basic but the Nambyan people here in Chisuma are justifiably proud of their traditional way of life. After viewing the kitchen and cooking area as well as the bedrooms (boys in one hut, girls in another, parents with their own) I got to see a small part of the long and exhausting process of pounding and processing maize into nzema, the staple food of the area.
This rhythmic production process is the soundtrack to rural life all over Africa; it may go under many names but the basic concept is the same.
Sadly it was soon time to return to the lodge and grab my bags. Staying at Gorges Lodge had been an amazing experience and I was already planning my return – next time with my family. Imvelo’s property has one of the most spectacular settings in Africa, superb service and comfortable accommodation – and as if that wasn’t enough one of the true wonders of the natural world is just up the road.
There are activities for everyone both at the Lodge and in town and most importantly of all you can enjoy yourself knowing that your tourism spend is making a real difference. Not a single day has passed since I left Gorges without me dreaming about being back there – I think that says it all.
Gorges Lodge – Victoria Falls
Dinner, Bed and Breakfast USD 350 per person sharing, USD 455 single use
Rate includes accommodation, meals as stated and one return shuttle to town per paying night
Shuttles/Transfers: Airport or town USD 28 single
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Impala seen from the historic tram ride with Shearwater Victoria Falls to the Victoria Falls Bridge. You don’t have to go far from town to encounter wildlife in Zimbabwe
#zimbabwesafari2014
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Do I ever? It’s true, that’s a big claim I’m making in that headline right there. But fear not, I’m going to convince you that I’m not writing cheques my story can’t cash.
Maybe so. Perhaps I should say that I’m not attempting a transaction for which my story has insufficient PayPal funds?
This trip to Zimbabwe was one of the best of my life – in just one short week I managed to pack in some incredible new experiences such as viewing the Victoria Falls from a helicopter, ziplining over the Zambezi, walking the catwalk under the Victoria Falls Bridge and of course living on the edge at Gorges Lodge. Actually this was all within the first three days – the remainder of my stay was spent at Bomani Tented Lodge where I finally got the chance to go on safari.
As regular readers will be aware I spent almost four years in Africa but this was twenty years ago and confined to the northern and western parts of the continent. With the exception of a few days in an extremely dilapidated national park in Ghana in the early 1990s where I did in fact see elephants, I had no prior experience of game viewing. Well I do now, and I’m hooked.
My contention is that whether you are also a complete newcomer to the magic of an African safari or an old hand with stamps from all the famous parks, you need to visit Zimbabwe. Look, if the previous articles have failed to spark your enthusiasm then perhaps you need to make sure your ticker is still ticking. There is so much to do at Victoria Falls that we had to split our article into two parts and who wouldn’t want to stay at Gorges Lodge?
But that’s only half the story – just a few hours’ drive from Imvelo’s clifftop property lies Bomani, located in a 5000 acre private concession in the Ngamo Forest Area on the threshold of the vast Hwange National Park.
Covering a staggering 14,600 square kilometers, Hwange is widely acknowledged to be one of the best parks in Africa for wildlife, and Bomani’s position in its unspoiled south-eastern corner is one of its biggest advantages. You won’t find convoys of jeeps encircling every poor lion or giraffe out here – this is the safari experience as it was supposed to be. I’ll tell you all about it in the next feature but for now let’s concentrate on the lodge itself.
So to pick up from where I left off – after a very rewarding village visit it was time to leave Gorges for the transfer to Bomani. Transport infrastructure in Zimbabwe is still in a dire state although there are tentative signs of improvement with new operators entering the field. It is possible to travel between the major cities by bus or (very slowly) by train, but to reach safari lodges in Hwange you will need to have a private transfer.
This is arranged at the time of booking so you don’t need to worry when you get there – if you are booking a package with Imvelo which includes both Gorges Lodge and Bomani, your transfers will be included. If you really want to travel in style you can opt to fly from Victoria Falls to Hwange National Park assuming the airstrip in Bomani is open; this is not usually the case in the rainy season.
Of course this is an expensive way to make an entrance but is sure to be spectacular – and with the airfield very close to Bomani you can be in camp an hour after taking off at Victoria Falls. As well as the cost, another point to consider is the restrictions on the amount of luggage you can take on the light aircraft – you may have to cut down your wardrobe a little.
If travelling by road the final part of the journey to Bomani also depends on the rains – the shortest route relies on a combination of an extremely vulnerable bridge and dirt roads that are impassable in the wet season. I was lucky enough to experience both routes as the river crossing was repaired in time for my departure. Having said that, it was still quite an experience, as ‘bridge’ is pushing it a little as you will see a little later.
Anyway, I took my seat in the comfortable minibus along with Martin and Carole and as well as an Australian couple who had arrived in Zimbabwe from Botswana that morning and were going straight to Bomani. We had plenty of time to get to know one another as the minibus blasted down the main road between Victoria Falls and Bulawayo which was in excellent condition.
We stopped a few times at toll barriers where those on duty collected the charges and were both polite and friendly – none of the “African road block tension” here. Otherwise our driver was able to keep motoring along at full speed as we took in the changing landscape around us.
It took about three and a half hours to reach Hwange Safari Lodge on the edge of the eponymous National Park. Here we were met by Sibs and Vusu – two guides from Bomani who along with their driver would take us on the final stretch to the camp. They had brought refreshments too and a cold beer and a sandwich were most welcome. Because the bridge on the River Gwai (see what I did there?) was still out of use, this section would take another three to four hours.
The dry season route cuts this down to one and a half but for me I enjoyed the adventure – we piled onto a 4WD safari vehicle which was open to the elements and were soon bumping along narrow, sandy ‘roads’ following the railway line a few metres to our right. Here’s a quick clip to give you an idea:
This certainly felt more like the Africa I remembered than an air conditioned bus, and whatever it lacked in comfort it made up for in fun.
For most of the journey we were driving on little more than tracks and regularly had to slow down to avoid being whipped by thorny branches encroaching on our path. Fortunately – and perhaps unsurprisingly – there was no other traffic so the fact that the we barely had room for the width of our own vehicle was not a problem.
It wasn’t long before we began to see wildlife – vultures, monkeys and giraffe were among the highlights. Our route took us through thick bush, forested areas and open plains with the railway a constant companion.
Somehow we managed to avoid the storm that seemed to threaten us for most of the journey and finally Vusu pointed to a sign on a tree, “Bomani”. We crossed the incredibly straight Victoria Falls to Bulwayo railway line and passed the airstrip to reach the plains on the edge of which Bomani Tented Lodge appeared.
It was starting to get dark and the main lodge building was a welcome sight after a day of travelling.
The vehicle pulled up at a set of steps and we climbed out, welcomed by the affable Big Boy and the rest of the Bomani staff.
The main building houses a bar and dining area as well as a lounge section with comfy chairs and a sofa – just the spot to enjoy the cold beer we were offered and listen to Big Boy explain how things worked at Bomani.
Big Boy is a real character and his friendly and fun attitude is infectious. Having got our attention, he went on to tell us what we needed to know about life in camp.
Despite having all the comforts guests need, a safari lodge is not simply a hotel in the bush. First of all, Bomani is located in an isolated area with no easy access to supplies. Ensuring that there is enough food and drink for guests and staff requires deft logistical skills and forward planning.
Clearly they know what they are doing as we experienced no problems in the five days I was there, which given the fluctuating number of guests was quite an achievement and testament to a Zimbabwean trait I became familiar with during my stay. I heard many stories and examples of Zimbabweans being faced with seemingly impossible challenges simply deciding to “make a plan” – a common response to adversity.
This explains how they managed to cope with the staggering inflation, food shortages and other hardships during the worst of the economic meltdown – it may not be the answer to everything but that kind of mentality helps more than just thinking “oh, it’ll be alright”.
Another big difference from a hotel is the fact that Bomani is effectively surrounded by wild animals. Okay, that makes it sound a little dramatic but there are no fences keeping elephants inside the National Park or signs that discourage lions from entering camp.
This is why it is forbidden for guests to walk back to their tents after dark without being accompanied by an armed guide. As Big Boy noted they have yet to lose a guest, safety is their number one priority and it makes sense to take care.
There’s no telling how an inexperienced visitor like myself would react to bumping into a lion in the darkness but it’s safe to assume it wouldn’t end well, so this is a rule nobody has a problem with. Since we would need to be up before dawn on occasion all we needed to do was arrange a wake-up call and collection from our tents when ready if it was still dark in the morning.
Electricity is available but rationed as a generator is used – basically power is limited to the morning and evening, which coincided well with when it was required.
Water is heated by burning wood in stoves for each tent; these are lit in the evening and provide plenty of piping hot water for a long shower after a day on safari. I also found that the tank remained warm the next morning too so I never had a problem.
The camp even had WiFi in the main area but this was understandably very slow and when I visited I had no mobile phone coverage at all, which I actually enjoyed. A new mast was about to be commissioned for the area though so Bomani is probably on the grid already – and WiFi has likely improved too. But leave your phone in your bag – there’s far more for you here than Facebook.
Bomani offers two different types of tented accommodation as well as one thatched bungalow aimed at families. On one side of the main building (where I stayed) you’ll find the five “Hornbill” tents which are raised about a metro above the ground and have great views over the Ngama Plain in front of the lodge.
On the other side are the four larger and more luxurious “Spurwing” suites and the bungalow which are on ground level and overlook the waterhole.
After our briefing I was shown to my accommodation. As you can see from the video below, this is not your average leaky, cramped canvas tent, but rather a spacious, semi-permanent construction with an en suite bathroom and a terrace to enjoy the view over the plains.
Mounted on wooden decking, the Hornbill tents come with floor-standing fans, one or two beds, a separate bathroom with shower, toilet and basin as well as a wardrobe and mosquito netting on all windows in the bedroom. The bathroom is a little more open to the elements which helps keep it cooler – this is a blessing during the heat of the day. Water pressure was excellent and as mentioned before I had plenty of hot water – couples could economize by sharing the shower too as it was big enough…
The climate at Bomani is wonderful – I was there at the start of the dry season but despite being warm all year round while the sun is up there is little or no humidity which makes it easy to cope even for us northern Europeans. Best of all, it can actually get chilly at night so you won’t be tossing and turning in a sweat waiting for sleep to kick in.
Trust me when I tell you that few experiences can match that of snuggling under a blanket listening to the sounds of the African bush after an unforgettable day viewing wildlife. Particularly when that day concluded with drinks round the campfire before a hearty meal and a glass or two of wine swapping stories with new friends. As I touched upon in my review of Gorges Lodge, this is real luxury travel and it’s a privilege worth saving up for – you’ll get a priceless return on your money.
All rooms are equipped with an emergency whistle and mobile LED lamp (don’t forget to charge it up if you use it) and mosquito repellant and toiletries are provided. I didn’t see a single mosquito during my stay but I was religious in my use of both mosquito coils and repellant and I suggest you do the same. Malaria is endemic in much of Zimbabwe so don’t forget to take those tablets too.
A great perk of staying at Bomani is the free laundry service – this means you can travel light safe in the knowledge that your clothes will be cleaned during the day and can be worn again.
And did I mention the view?
All food and drink is included with the exception of premium wines and imported liquor. As mentioned before the team at Bomani are experts in stock control and manage to ensure supplies don’t run dry. Guests help themselves to beer, soft drinks and water from the fridge in the main lodge building and enjoy a variety of home-cooked meals while staying at the lodge.
Overall the quality of the meals was good and portions were extremely generous. As in Zimbabwe in general meat is extremely popular and if you are a weird vegetarian or have special dietary requirements make sure you give Imvelo notice and they’ll make arrangements for you.
In general a light breakfast is served before the early game drive and then brunch/lunch awaits you on your return. Dinner is in the evening and plenty of snacks and drinks are served during the day so you won’t go hungry. Vehicles are equipped with cold boxes for those perfect sundowners on safari.
Obviously the main activity is wildlife viewing, but this takes several forms and there are many other rewarding ways to use your time at Bomani.
As well as morning, afternoon and night game drives you can go on a game walk or join an all-day “pump run”. This entails visiting the waterholes to supply fuel and oil for the diesel engines that pump the water as well as food rations and wages for their operators. Hwange National Park has no large rivers and wildlife survives on pumped water as it has done for over 70 years. Imvelo Safari Lodges is responsible for 8 pumped waterholes in this area of the park. After making deliveries lunch is enjoyed by the waterhole before an afternoon game drive during the journey back to the lodge stopping for sundowners and snacks en route.
Due to the ample rains that had fallen in the weeks before my visit, a pump run was not necessary as the animals had plenty of water without the need for starting the engines. Instead I had more time to visit Imvelo’s social and projects which was a fantastic experience and deserving of an entire article – which of course it will be given. Watch this space for in-depth features on both my first safari and visiting the local villages and schools helped by Imvelo Safari Lodges.
Just like at Gorges Lodge, all of the staff working at Bomani come from neighboring villages – another direct benefit for the communities bordering the national park.
After a truly life-changing stay at Bomani Tented Lodge it was not easy to leave. But all good things must come to an end, and for my return journey the camp staff had received word that the Gwai River bridge was open again so I would have a quicker journey back to Victoria Falls for my flight back to JoBurg and on to Europe.
We left just after first light and it was a spectacular ride – this video will show what I meant about the rather interesting definition of the word “bridge”.
And of the word “open”, for that matter 
The skill and experience of Bomani’s driver were put to good use, and with the help of our seriously powerful 4WD vehicle we made it across and on to the tarmac road a few minutes later. Swapping vehicles at Halfway House (a hotel whose best days are sadly far in the past) the rest of the journey went without a hitch.
Even now, many weeks later, I think of my time in Zimbabwe every day and cannot wait to return with my wife and daughter to share the excitement and adventure of an African safari. Bomani Tented Lodge is the perfect base for such a safari – the seclusion of the location along with the vast amount of wildlife is an appealing combination. Add the expert guides, service-minded and friendly staff at the lodge, the social and conservation work being carried out by Imvelo to which guests are making a real contribution and the comfortable accommodation and you’ve everything you need.
For a genuine safari experience, come to Zimbabwe. For the ideal place to stay, come to Bomani. Combine a few days here with a few at Gorges Lodge and you’ll have the holiday of a lifetime – just like I did. And I haven’t even told you the half of it yet, so check back for the rest of the story!
Bomani Tented Lodge – Hwange National Park
All inclusive rates:
Hornbill Tents: USD 285 per person sharing, USD 371 single use
Spurwing Tented Suites: USD 315 per person sharing, USD 410 single use
Family Suite: USD 335 per person sharing, USD 436 single use
Rate includes accommodation, all meals, soft drinks, beers, wine and local spirits, laundry, transfers from Sipepa, Hwange Main Camp, Halfway House or the Lodge airstrip, game activities as available including walks, drives, all-day excursions and night drives, parl entry fees per paying night, visit to local village, tour of village school and service of licensed guide on safari
ROAD TRANSFER
Victoria Falls – Halfway House/ vice versa – US$100 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
Bomani – Hwange Main Camp / vice versa – US$40 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
AIR CHARTER
Victoria Falls – Bomani Air Strip (dry season) – US$390 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
Victoria Falls – Sipepa Air Strip (wet season) – US$430 per person one way (rate for minimum of 2 passengers).
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Spotted near Bomani Tented Lodge in Zimbabwe
#zimbabwesafari2014
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It took me 44 years, but I got there in the end. In 2014 I finally got to realise what all the fuss is about. Actually, I guess I knew what the fuss was about but going on safari in Africa far exceeded my expectations and made me understand why this particular experience is at or near the top of so many bucket lists.
If you’re a fan of this website then you are probably one of those people who wants a little more from their holiday. Perhaps in truth a fortnight on the beach reading bestsellers is more of a trial than a vacation.
Maybe you want to come back from your travels with more than a Bloomingdale’s Big Brown Bag. Don’t get me wrong – lazy days in the sun or frenetic shopping in New York are fun too, and this is not about travel snobbery. I can assure you I’m not going to get into that tired old ‘traveller versus tourist’ debate.
However I do believe that every single one of you should plan on an African safari at least once in your lives, and in this article I’m going to try to explain why…
The urge to get back to nature and away from the stress and claustrophobia of modern life is a major reason why a safari holds such appeal; but there are other ways to ‘get away from it all’.
Living in Norway I’m lucky enough to be able to escape to the hills and forests with ease and perhaps I appreciate this even more having grown up in South London. But solitude is one thing – coming face to face with Africa’s wildlife is another.
Nothing can prepare you for your first sighting – you’ll be pinching yourself to check if that elephant twenty feet away is really there. You’ll learn all about the animals and life in the bush; you’ll make new friends and share amazing experiences.
You’ll bask in the warmth of the African sun and be transfixed by the brightness of the stars in a sky that appears to be in some kind of super widescreen ultra high definition.
Above all, it will become clear to you just how incredible this planet of ours really is – and how vulnerable are its other inhabitants to the arrogance of man.
It might not turn you into a tree-hugger or vegetarian, but a safari in Africa will change your view of the world in a positive way and I guarantee that this great continent will get under your skin. Your holiday may be intended as a one-off trip of a lifetime, but you’ll be back…
It took me 20 years but there was never any doubt in my mind that I’d be return to Africa and I’m already looking forward to my next journey.
Planning a safari can be a daunting task as there are so many operators – and countries – to choose from. Deciding where, when and how to travel is beyond the scope of this particular post so I’ll just tell you about my own experience in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.
I’ve already made my case for why you should consider booking with Imvelo Safari Lodges and why Bomani Tented Lodge makes the perfect base when I reviewed the accommodation, and my next Zimbabwe article will show you the work that the company is doing with the local communities.
If you follow my advice, this is what you can expect:
Rather than an alarm clock, the TV turning itself on or a phone call from reception, your wake-up call is in the form of a softly-spoken “Knock-knock” outside your tent at the prearranged time. It’s a good idea to make an early start so you can catch the sunrise and the sounds of the wildlife surrounding the camp coming to life.
I arranged my ‘call’ for about 0545 every day but was usually awake a little before of my own accord – just lying in bed listening to the sounds of nature is a wonderful way to begin a new day. It sounds brutally early but you’ll be on a different rhythm here – one of early nights and early starts.
If you have hot water left from the night before you can take a shower – or use cold water if you’re struggling to wake up. I soon established a routine of slapping on the suncream and spraying on the insect repellant before getting dressed and making my way to breakfast. A steaming mug of coffee completed the preparatory process and a filling breakfast set me up for the morning.
Together with the rest of the group and our guides we discussed the plan for the day, and shortly after would set off on a game drive. This may include a walking safari as early morning is the best time for this activity and we would be back for “second breakfast” or brunch at around 1100. Then it’s time to relax or have a siesta until around 1500 when we would again gather at the main building for our second game drive which would conclude with sundowners in the bush.
We’d head back to camp just after dark and get cleaned up for dinner – preceded by drinks round the campfire. Most nights the restaurant was empty about 2230 after the last guest had been escorted to their tent and most of us were fast asleep soon after, dreaming of the day to come.
Your guide is the key to a successful and enjoyable safari – the amount of wildlife in the park is irrelevant if you can’t find it. As I’ve touched on before, Zimbabwe’s guides are recognised as among the best in Africa; it takes much longer to qualify as a guide than to complete a university degree and the first-time pass rate is under 10%. The training programme is not just about theory and learning about the enormous amount of flora and fauna – it also covers people management, tourism and environmental laws, first aid, vehicle maintenance, firearms and cookery.
It’s no surprise that Zimbabwe’s guides are sought-after in other countries and that during the economic crisis many quickly found work abroad. To this day, a certificate from Zimbabwe is almost a guarantee of an instant job offer from most safari companies. Happily many guides are now returning and are a major force in attracting tourists to their home country.
I had the privilege of being guided by Sibs – an extremely knowledgeable, friendly and down-to-earth guide with a great sense of humour. He had just joined Imvelo after working for other safari companies in Hwange and abroad – Sibs found work in Botswana and South Africa during the worst of the problems in Zimbabwe.
We also had a trainee with us, Vusu, who in line with company policy was from the local village. Vusu told us all about life in the bush and how tough it had been before Imvelo came into the picture. A former teacher, working in education had been the only possible career as a young boy and conditions were extremely difficult even when he secured the sough-after position at a run-down school. Things are different for many of his contemporaries who are schooled in modern classrooms and now have the opportunity to train as guides or for other jobs in the lodges and thus a future in the tourism industry in Zimbabwe.
The main activity while on safari is the game drive – at Bomani there are typically two per day; one right after a very early breakfast then another after an afternoon siesta period. Imvelo uses the classic safari vehicle – a modified Land Rover SUV which seats up to 7 guests and is very comfortable.
There is ample stowage space for each seat where you can keep your camera, binoculars, water etc. while on the move. Your guide will usually be driving and often has an assistant with him up front.
After going over a few simple rules (the majority of which are common sense like not leaving the vehicle and switching off your phone) we clambered aboard and were soon bumping our way along the trail from the lodge and into the National Park itself.
Everyone is encouraged to try to spot animals although it’s often hard to compete with the expertise of the guides who usually get there first. Binoculars are a must-have, and a good camera is essential too but no pictures (or even video) can quite replicate the experience. Having said that, this clip should whet your appetite – it covers my first morning on safari from waking at dawn to returning for lunch.
As you will have seen in the video, we also went on a walking safari. This is a thrilling experience, there is something very different about being on foot in the bush as opposed to being a few feet up on a vehicle.
Again it’s vital that you follow your guide’s instructions and we were also taught a few hand signal in case we would not be able to talk without disturbing (or annoying) an animal close by.
Sibs led the party and was carrying a rifle – just in case. He told us that in all his years as a guide he had never had to use it which is just as well – aside from having to kill one of the animals bullets cost around USD 12 each due to the embargo in force against arms to Zimbabwe, so it would be both expensive as well as tragic to have to pull the trigger.
With Vusu bringing up the rear we proceeded in single file and followed the trail of elephants and lion. It’s amazing how much these guys can interpret from some tracks in the dust.
Here are some of the highlights from the game drives I took while at Bomani.
As you will have seen in the first video, we didn’t even make it to the gate before we came upon a pride of lions – it was an amazing way to begin.
Sibs stopped the vehicle when they first appeared and gave us time to get photos and observe the group while telling us all about them. After it became clear where they were headed he started up the jeep once more and moved into a position where we would head them off – so the lions passed right by us.
I could feel the adrenaline rising during the encounter but I felt safe the entire time – it is easy to relax when in the hands of an expert who knows when if it is time to retreat.
Soon after we came upon a jackal watching us from a distance and Sibs managed to get closer to this guy too. Jackals are very attractive creatures with a slightly bad reputation – which is mostly undeserved.
Moving on again we passed a waterhole with a small group of large hippos keeping cool in the early morning sun.
We passed them several times each day but never once saw them leave the water or even stick their heads up enough for a proper photo. I mean really…
Waterbuck are magnificent animals, and the story about the reason they have the ring on their hind quarters is because they got stuck sitting on a freshly-pained toilet seat is an oldie but a goldie…
Wildebeest are everywhere at Hwange and the subject of much derision by guides who say that they were put together from all the bits left over from other animals.
They certainly have an uphill battle in the survival stakes as they are unable to stop their tails swishing which gives away their position to predators…
Impala are also very common but it takes a little patience to get this close – they are easily startled and run very fast.
This baboon was one of a huge group we saw several times.
Zebra are beautiful creatures, no?
Buffalo are really fun animals to meet. Not as fierce as they are reputed to be, they are incredibly curious animals and it’s quite unnerving to be watched so closely by so many huge buffalo – these were at the edge of a very large herd. The entire group just couldn’t seem to take their eyes off us…
The ostrich – one of nature’s strangest creations.
Steenbok are very timid and we were lucky to see this one before he sped into the distance.
And to complement the photos, here’s some more video footage from our game drives:
You should be planning a safari holiday – that’s the conclusion.
All the activities mentioned (and more besides) are included in the cost of your holiday with Imvelo Safari Lodges. If you have a week then do as I did – spend a couple of days at Victoria Falls and stay at Gorges Lodge before transferring to Bomani Tented Lodge. Imvelo is expanding and a new, top-end lodge has recently opened called Camelthorn which is very close to Bomani and a more remote camp in Hwange will commence business later this year.
In terms of value for money I would give the Gorges Lodge/Bomani combo full marks and this is the same itinerary I will use when I return with my wife and daughter.
The post My first African safari – Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe appeared first on Grown-up Travel Guide.com.
Going on safari in Africa – it’s hard to think of any other travel experience that holds the same allure. Exotic, adventurous, wild…perhaps with a tinge of danger to add to the excitement? Often described as a ‘once in a lifetime’ activity, a safari holiday is certainly high on many a bucket list.
I would argue that the majority of those who are fortunate enough to visit the most exciting and vibrant continent on the planet do in fact return. And the rest dream of doing so.
Okay, I’ll admit my evidence for this claim is more anecdotal than empirical but don’t let me stop you commissioning a survey to check if you so desire. The only caveat is that you buy me a beer when the results prove me right – which they will.
Anyway, there are a lot of things to consider when you decide it’s time to experience an African safari. Note the deliberate use of “when” rather than “if” there. However this article is going to focus on ‘responsible travel’; a rather broad – and often misused – term that you’ll see used by just about every safari operator and accommodation provider promoting their services in Africa.
So what exactly does it mean to travel responsibly? There are a multitude of interpretations but I like to see it as travel which minimises your negative impact on the local environment and is instead beneficial to the destination.
Obviously there are trade-offs; flying half way round the world isn’t exactly good for global warming and your time could arguably be more responsibly spent generating electricity on an exercise bike attached to a dynamo in your basement for two weeks.
So let’s look at the other part of the equation here – how your dream trip can benefit the destination.
In the context of a safari in Africa there are really two main issues to consider: conservation and development. But the point here is that both need to be addressed as one will not work without the other.
Those tour operators, safari lodge owners and for that matter NGOs and governmental agencies that understand the need for policies that promote both conservation and development are the ones that succeed.
Let’s look at both individually: conservation is not just about saving a single species – the entire environment must be conserved. It might seem like saving the white rhino is priority number one but if those white rhino have no ecosystem in which to thrive, what is the point?
Yet the people who live on the land must benefit from its conservation – not live next to a private safari concession and watch while a few rich foreigners gawp at elephant. When those elephant threaten their crops or their families, where is the incentive not to defend themselves?
Put simply, the local population must see direct benefits from animals being protected and tourists coming to see them. This is the development part of the equation. Once a farmer sees that money from the safari lodge is used to build clinics and schools, provide safe water and paid job opportunities he will see the value in the wildlife that tourists are paying to see.
It’s a win-win situation – you as a paying guest enjoy an experience you will never forget and the local communities reap benefits they would not otherwise receive.
This is one of the reasons I wanted to work with Imvelo Safari Lodges and chose them for my first ever safari.
Their operations in Zimbabwe are a shining example of how responsible travel can work – and while visiting Bomani Tented Lodge I was able to visit some of the projects in the Hwange area. By starting with the villages closest to the camp itself and working their way along the edge of the vast national park the company is helping a rising number of local communities to advance.
These are villages in an area essentially overlooked by the government – a mixture of politics, tribalism and history has left this part of the country far poorer than others. Imvelo is providing help that would not otherwise reach these isolated villages and a reason why talk of boycotting travel to Zimbabwe really makes me furious.
No matter how you feel about a country’s leaders or their policies, would you really want to actively deny its people help by staying away? There is enough material for an entire article’s worth of ranting about the idiocy of travel boycotts so I’ll not start that ball rolling here. Suffice it to say that you should think long and hard before deciding not to go somewhere for political reasons (I could give you enough of those to put you off most countries in the world, I’m sure.)
All of Imvelo’s guests are offered the chance to see the impact their money is making and I thoroughly recommend the experience. Feedback is overwhelmingly positive and most visitors say that such excursions were the most rewarding part of their entire stay.
In order to get the full picture I was shown one of the first schools to receive help and thus at the most advanced stage in its development, a school which has received help to build some new blocks and at which progress is ongoing and finally a school where work is about to start.
My guide for this part of my visit was Thembinkosi Mlauzi – Programs Coordinator for Imvelo Safari Lodges. A mine of information about the company’s projects, the local area and history I could have talked with him for weeks on end. In the event I only had two mornings but made the most of them…
Our first port of call was Ngamo. The closest village to Bomani and the new Imvelo lodge close by – Camelthorn – Ngamo has both a junior and high school which have benefitted greatly from revenues produced by the lodges. But we had an appointment with the Village Head first.
We were greeted by Johnson Ncube who showed us around his immaculately kept compound and explained many of the details of village life.
His wife showed us around their house which was also where our guide – Johnson Ncube’s son Vusumuzi (Vusa for short) had grown up.
Vusa Ncube is training to become a qualified guide which in Zimbabwe is a major undertaking. From the time I spent in his company I am sure he will make an excellent guide and is a real asset to Imvelo. But he is also a role model to the rest of the local community – before the only real career choice was to be a teacher; there just weren’t any other opportunities beyond farming.
Now many young children aspire to become guides or work at the lodges – and those who do choose teaching have properly-equipped schools at which to work.
This painting on the wall of the family home is evidence of another of Vusa’s talents…
Vusa’s mother demonstrates her skill at making bags and other handicrafts after showing us round her home.
The kitchen is not contained within the house but in a separate building, complete with decorative shelving formed from the clay walls.
All of our questions were answered and we got a fascinating insight into traditional rural life in Zimbabwe. Then it was time for school…
As you can see, Ngamo is a modern junior school with amenities that Vusa and his peers could only dream of when they were in class. These days the school is well-equipped and built to last.
We got a rousing reception from one of the classes – they are probably used to visitors by now but this didn’t seem to have tarnished their enthusiasm. We timed our visit between lessons so as to cause minimum disruption, by the way.
After spending time with the children we said our farewells and had a quick peek in the school library.
The shelves were groaning under the weight of donated text books from around the world – many of which were provided through the efforts of one lady in South Africa – a previous Imvelo guest. Books are an excellent gift to bring if you visit.
The grounds of Ngamo Junior School are well kept and the enormous tree provides welcome shade. After a chat with the headmaster of the school we returned to the vehicle to pay a visit to Ngamo High School.
Here we sat in on a maths lesson where the aptitude of the students was far better than mine. I offered little help to the two boys I was sat with who solved the problems on their own.
Here too the classroom blocks are well built, desks and chairs are provided and in good condition and facilities for the teachers and children are of a decent standard.
Ngamo Junior was still a work in progress as another classroom was needed, but work was underway and the construction teams are fast builders.
Mzimkhulu Sigola – the Head of Ngamo High School showed us the newly completed teachers’ accommodation.
One of the biggest problems in the rural areas of Zimbabwe is attracting teachers to come and work. Most need to live on site and a lack of adequate accommodation is a huge disincentive. Being able to offer good housing makes an enormous difference and both schools at Ngamo are now fully staffed.
The toilet block was also recently completed.
It was time for us to return to Bomani and an afternoon game drive. But the next morning we drove much further, to visit a school desperately in need of help and the next on the list to receive assistance from Imvelo.
Mr E. Nyakura – a teacher at Mtshayeli Junior School, showed us the sorry state of his workplace. This was a timely reminder of just how bad things are before help is provided.
The classroom had a roof that leaked and was unsafe during the rains; indeed there is no way that anyone would be taught inside such a dangerous, crumbling structure in rich countries. But the ability of Zimbabweans to make do with what they have once again touched my heart.
Many of the chairs used by pupils were falling apart and some had to share – and the desks, of which there were far too few, were all of different heights. They needed help fast, and thankfully it was on its way. There are many more schools like this one, and it be a slow process. But little by little, things are moving in the right direction.
As we left Mtshayeli for the two hour trip back on the bumpy bush roads the three of us who were guests at Bomani fell silent – lost in our own thoughts. It’s hard to believe just how lucky we are purely due to where we are born and grow up. It certainly makes me realise just how priviledged we are in Europe and how different my daughter’s experience at school is to those Zimbabwean children of the same age.
Yet the main feeling we all took away was one of hope – Imvelo seem to have found the right way to balance the desires of tourists with the needs of the community. For an incredible safari experience in Zimbabwe that not only will provide you with memories for life but will also help the local community, book with Imvelo Safari Lodges.
The post The positive impact of tourism – visiting Imvelo’s social projects in Zimbabwe appeared first on Grown-up Travel Guide.com.
